As we’ve ascertained in the previous two posts, I’ve not done anything very interesting about my skin in the last few years. Mostly it’s been a matter of trying not to actively do anything to it, or passively have happen to it, that landed me in the ER. Continue reading
THE GOOD NEWS
1. Laura Mercier Cake Eyeliner (brown)
Is as good as previously. I had this stuff many years ago and loved it. The formula apparently changed, and the last one I bought–maybe a year or two ago?–was no bloody good used with water. I don’t know if that was because of the formula or because that happened to be a lousy batch. This current one, though, is fine and great. I haven’t been keeping up with reformulations enough to be able to tell you whether this is yet another version (so, the third I’ve used) or not.
I can say that I like it, and it works as well, as memory serves, as the first one I used. Memory is of course notoriously unreliable, and perception is subjective. Combine the two and lo, you have the endless joys of phenomenology. Cosmetic Phenomenology / The Phenomenology of Cosmetics: there’s PhD theses and books to be written here. And a good test of how genuinely non-macho professional philosophy really is, how accepting of various expressions of femininity and feminism, in the wake of recent scandals and a longer continuity of stereotypes.
Easy and fast to apply, stays on all day, no migration into eyes, removes with regular make-up remover (=the multi-purpose oil).
2. Bobbi Brown Intensifying Long-Wear Mascara (black)
Practically applies itself, brilliant small brush, suits my application technique: brush the brush through lashes in one smooth sweep (rather than wriggling and wiggling), no combing through needed. My metal-toothed Tweezerman lash comb has now formally and officially been relegated to the bag of stuff under the sink. Not used it since I moved over to this mascara.
It (the mascara, not the comb) hasn’t dried out yet, hasn’t suffered from recent cold weather, stays on all day, doesn’t smudge–this is vital, as I wear glasses and cannot bear smudges on them–or flake, is waterproof in rain, and can be removed with warm water. I’m using oil to remove all eye make-up anyway, and that removes this stuff too.
For any of you who remember it, this is very like Bobbi Brown’s earlier venture into tubers, again with a beautiful small brush, the Perfectly Defined mascara.
UPDATE: this flaked into eyes and irritated. Mainly from lower lashes. This is not because it is a tubing mascara: I have used tubers that didn’t flake, some that did but didn’t irritate, and some that did and did. YMMV.
THE BAD NEWS
1.Bobbi Brown eyeliner, the gel one in sepia ink:
Nice colour, a good alternative to my old favourite, Chocolate Shimmer Ink.
But less fast and easy to apply than the LM Cake, and I got some blobby bits in my lashes which then got clogged up with mascara and were a pest to remove. Needing a lash comb, which then pulled out drying tubes of mascara and clumpified the tube-bits, and then the mascara had to be redone and while this tuber doesn’t dry as lightening-fast as some others, it does dry fast.
Might suit someone else with a different application technique, such as applying it after mascara, with a different mascara, or with no mascara.
So: cleaned with alcohol and donated to women’s shelter.
Using instead: Laura Mercier cake eyeliner + water.
2. Bobbi Brown Eye Brightener in porcelain bisque I think, anyway the lightest shade:
Nice but, when timed, took more time for application than what I was using previously. Stung like hell when I got some in my eyes.
Did side-by-side comparisons with my old tube of Laura Mercier Eye Basic in Linen: same shade, looked identical on eyelid (though the LM is too dry for undereye), LM is way faster to apply and settles immediately. It’s drier though, and can look chalky by the end of the day. If you’re Going Out at the end of the day, looking (and feeling) chalky is the last thing you want or need. I might be exaggerating: there are worse things: but chalkiness would rank low on most people’s lists of desiderata for a hot date, warm cheery soirée with chums, or post-work excursions where sparkliness would be de rigeur.
Side-by-side comparisons with my other previous eye concealer, Silk Naturals HD Peach concealer (shade 20): SN was also easier to apply, and could also be used in the under-eye area. Left alone it can smudge and crease on lids, in the crease itself; set with SN (or any other) powder, that doesn’t happen and all is well.
So: cleaned with alcohol and donated to women’s shelter (on a hygiene note: I only ever applied this, from the doe-foot applicator, to the back of my clean hand: so the applicator has not been near my eyes; I always add a note though, just in case).
Using instead: Silk Naturals HD concealer (20) + their Cloud translucent powder.
–Turns out my irritation wasn’t with the BB eye brightener but with the mascara. This was evident from testing different combinations of eye concealer + mascara. So we’re cool again.
—The LM is way dry and drying on me, no go from November onwards, and terrible in the undereye area.
—The SN concealer I’m in two minds about and not throwing out. It takes longer to apply, with the powder layer. It looks very matte, not a great look behind glasses. If you use powder on top of the concealer in the undereye area, on me anyway it creases and looks dry after a few hours. If you don’t, you get smears on glasses.
3. Bobbi Brown shimmer eyeshadow in Bone
Really pretty, lovely glowy illuminating stuff. So long as I only apply it right on the brow bone, next to my eyebrows, and only under their outer section: it doesn’t come off onto my glasses. If I apply it any lower down, or under the rest if my eyebrows: then my eyelashes sweep this stuff onto my glasses. That is intolerable. Worse, it ends up in my eyes and stings. But even when applied sparingly to areas that are beyond the lengthy sweep of my lashes, some of this stuff still comes off into eyes. And yes, I trim my eye-lashes fairly regularly. People with short lashes, or without glasses, thank your lucky stars.
Verdict: it stays until I find an acceptable clone/dupe, keeping it for side-by-side comparisons. And then it goes to one or other of my local women’s shelters.
Using instead: nothing, right now. Do you know of suitable alternatives? Not too sparkly, but at least a little shimmery? And compatible with long eyelashes and glasses? If so, I’d love to hear from you!
UPDATE: keeping it for sparkly occasions. I also discovered the cream version, which is more matte but still a teeny bit eye-openingly shimmery and has amazing powers for drying absolutely smooth (no greasing or smudging) but moist.
1. It’s always good to try out new things, because you never know if you’ll like them until you try them.
2. Sometimes it’s the old, tried and tested, true trusties that still win out, even against what look like fancier things. This doesn’t mean one should trust them and never try anything else, because of (1) above and because THESE ARE THINGS not animate beings.
3. On which subject of animate vs inanimate beings, a reminder that there is a bigger picture.
There is a whole world out there, in which make-up is relatively unimportant.
It’s still somewhat important, because it can help people to feel better. Feeling better can be good for your mental health and well-being. It can also out you in a better mood and make you more likely to be nice to other people. That in turn can make you a better person. Being a better person has been SCIENTIFICALLY directly connected to being happier. And, even if make-up doesn’t work out, you can still become happy from it if you give it away to someone else. So the end result is more happiness, whatever happens.
But: in the greater context, make-up is relatively unimportant. Getting attached to it, and to brands, is silly and foolish. Other things merit your attachment: family, friends, other people, Humanity in general, including people who might not be very like you. Who might have no interest in makeup or even be actively against it. For many reasons, good and bad. Perhaps through innocent ignorance. Make-up could be an alien wonder, a bizarre irrelevance if your existence is more focused on day-to-day survival. Think of these other very different people, put yourself in their shoes. It’s a matter of perception; and we’re back to phenomenology again.
Other things merit your attachment: not just people, but the whole world of animate sentient beings and the rest or your environment. Empathy for other things that feel. Compassion, literally “suffering with,” which can be extended to non-sentient living things and to their whole ecosystem, down to inanimate rocks and up to clouds and the rest or the atmosphere. “Suffering with” all of that because we’re part or that whole thing too, as connected to it as an earthworm or a fly.
Well, the Bobbi Brown eyeliner twisty-stick was all very well except for several things.
1. It gets used up fast. It is a far, far worse buy than the little jar of cream/gel eyeliner. Many times worse. Let me calculate: for around the same price, you get about 1/10 of the volume of product ($24 for a 3g of Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner vs. 0.35g of Perfectly Defined Gel Eyeliner twist-up pencil).
So long as you already have an eyeliner brush, the stuff in the jar is a better buy. Even if you don’t, that brush will pay for itself over the lifetime of a jar of eyeliner compared to buying several twisty-sticks over the same period.
I’m not going into comparisons with traditional pencils, the kind you sharpen, because I dislike them and therefore never use or buy them. It’s the sharpening that gets me. Or rather, when you get a sharpening-shaving in your eye…
2. The end of the twisty-stick becomes a nub, then you have to sharpen it (or just sort of wear it down to a point on the back of your hand), and you lose more eyeliner than you’re using on your eyes.
3. The cap cracks. Partly because it’s the wrong shape for sticking on the other end of the eyeliner while using said device on eyes, so you either sit on it or try to wedge it on the end of the eyeliner.
4. I’m going to count the cap not fitting the other end as a whole point of annoyance in its own right. I mean, come on: would you buy a (writing-)pen whose cap couldn’t be stuck on the non-business end?
5. The eyeliner inside broke. Wasting yet more of the stuff.
6. Not very eco-friendly delivery method: that’s a lot of plastic for a small quantity of product. Wasteful and less recyclable than glass.
This is no criticism of Bobbi Brown. All the above Several Things are true of all eyeliner twisty-sticks I’ve used plus others from other companies that I investigated (poking, prodding, and generally probing in shops until made to go away by SAs pointed attempts to “help”). Almay (sticks only; quite a lot of people only do sticks), Becca, Buxom, Chanel, Clinique, Lancôme, MAC, Make Up For Ever, Maybelline, NARS, Rimmel, Sephora, Shu Uemura, Smashbox, Stila, Tarte, Urban Decay. Etc.
It’s a shocker. What a rip-off. Or: I wouldn’t mind if I knew the price-difference were going directly to pay for recycling, funding research on minimising packaging and waste and on sustainability, and subsidising a cheaper more environmentally-responsible jar.
Back to the jars of cream/gel eyeliner then, accompanied by one of my marvellous old brushes (free with Clinique’s potted liner). A change of brown, too: away from my previous Chocolate Shimmer Ink to Sepia Ink. Also a back-up of Laura Mercier cake in Mahogany; the last one I bought (just after reformulation) was terrible, this one claims it *can* be used with water (how exciting: so that would be like before the last version… back full circle… ).
Morals of the story:
- beware false economies and laziness
- buy once, buy better
- choose the less wasteful, more recyclable option
Skin is feeling drier as the weather gets colder. It’s not dramatic: right now, here in Vancouver the temperature has dropped from around 16-18° C to around about 12-13. Big deal. And it’s currently raining. Skin isn’t getting dried out through dry air, nor through excess indoor heating and massive climactic vatiation between indoors and outdoors. But it does mean that the mid-northern clammy chill has started. Winter is coming…
ATTEMPTS AT SOLUTIONS: Continue reading
I was away. This involved not carrying too much stuff. Unfortunately, until the FAA and suchlike get rid of that absurd 3-1-1 max 3 oz / 100 ml rule, I am obliged to check in one bag when flying, so as to have adequate sunscreen supplies. Until the kind of sunscreen I can use on my skin is available more widely, I am stuck with carrying around my own supplies. (Next time you see someone with a more visible disability than my relatively trivial one, spare them a thought.) Given that I live half-way around the world from the various places I was going, and given that I didn’t have the time to go by slow boat or foot: I was obliged to fly. Yes, I made my carbon-offsetting donations (and percentage-of-ticket-price donation to trees), like a good person.
Here are the lucky beautification products that accompanied me on my jet-setting adventures.
to my MakeupAlley notepad: which is now updatable without crashing. Albeit, as is all too often the case, if you’re not using a Windows OS you can’t avail yourself of wysiwyg editors and you’re back with old-fashioned hand-scripting. Oh well. Does the job.
Revamped notepad now reflects what’s on here. Most of it shouldn’t need updating for a while. But–golly gosh–I first put together that MUA notepad five (yes, 5) years ago. My MUA-birthday was on the 24th; I admit to having lurked for 2004-07 on another account (which I deleted when I “went active”), with which all I did was read reviews and board discussion, as a passive MUAer. But five years is an eternity in internet terms. Even more chilling, for anyone scared of aging: I built my first website and made my first Wikipedia edits ten years ago, first blogging shortly after, and first online chat (gulp) twenty years ago.
Makes you think. Encroaching old age. Senescence and senility, or wisdom and venerability? Me, I’m looking forward to Second Childhood. And to all my colouring changing, which will mean being able to wear all sorts of ginger-inappropriate things with impunity:
When I am an old woman I shall wear purple
With a red hat which doesn’t go, and doesn’t suit me. Continue reading