my MUA reviews: shampoo

With apologies for repetitions of information, especially that whole “how to wash your hair” business. Grannies and eggs again for the most part.

Earth Science – pure essentials fragrance free shampoo  rated 5 of 5 gingerrama on 12/31/2011 10:25:00 PM

Great basic minimalist conditioner for fragile, sensitive etc. skin inc. scalp. It’s fragrance-free, doesn’t have sodium lauryl sulfate (I can’t use this for eczema reasons; other), has a skin-neutral pH, and doesn’t contain any other of my irritants; weirdly, these include aloe vera and unfortunately it’s in most other unscented shampoos.
Skin here: dry, sensitive, fragile (easily irritated and thin . physically delicate), eczema. Hair: long, fine, thick/dense, slightly wavy, untreated, normal to slightly dry.
Results: Scalp is calm. Surrounding skin (face, neck, shoulders, back) too. And hair is clean. Well done that shampoo.
It’s a clear gellid substance. Needs a little mixing with water in the palm of the hand before use.
Method for use: OK, this is completely teaching granny to suck eggs; but you never know, some of this might be useful to someone out there:
1. Brush hair in the direction it’ll be washed (usually, head upside-down). Get in shower. Wet hair (using tepid water throughout, not hot). Pre-wash, usually applying conditioner (with some DIY hair oil mixed in: see NP, currently a mix of argan and avocado) to damp hair, to the lengths below ears. Sometimes I use the oil instead. Sometimes I apply the oil as a treatment, for half an hour or more beforehand.
2. Rinse all that out.
3. Apply a little shampoo, just to scalp. Move it around very approximately: this is just to loosen dirt etc. It’ll seem like nothing’s happened. Don’t worry. Rinse out immediately.
4. Second main wash, just the scalp again, with more massaging–but gently. It’ll lather a little. Leave this in for a couple of minutes while cleaning rest of self.
5. Rinse out. I found that without doing the conditioning pre-wash, my hair was tangled and a bit dry and brittle-feeling with almost all shampoos (including this one). But doing the pre-wash, hair’s perfectly OK: no straw effects.
6. Condition, below ears again (not scalp) and with DIY hair oil mixed in. Leave that for a few minutes.
7. Rinse out.
8. Final cold rinse, squeeze out water using hands, wrap hair in towel. I leave hair to air-dry and I don’t use any styling products; just a bit of argan oil or the DIY mix if hair ends are dry (between washes) or if I’m generally overall drier than usual.
Tangential to its immediate functioning: Earth Science stuff is cruelty-free, cheap (around USD/CAD 5.00-8.00 for 12 fl oz), and readily available (shops, online). I’ve used quite a few unscented shampoos, here in North America and in Europe, and at a range of prices: this is one of the best. Unreservedly recommended.
INGREDIENTS: Water, Sodium Myreth Sulfate, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Wheat Germ Amidopropyl Betaine, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Panthenol, Lactic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate

John Masters – Bare Unscented Shampoo  rated 3 of 5 gingerrama on 5/23/2011 3:31:00 PM

An OK basic no-frills shampoo; I wouldn’t throw it out of the bathroom, would use it again in a pinch, but I wouldn’t rebuy it again in a hurry.
Clear, gel-like texture, needs to be emulsified in hands (with water) before use. It won’t foam on a first application, will lather slightly on a second one; this is usual for many shampoos, depends on kind of detergents in the formula (ex., as here, no SLS or SLES).
Pro #1: it is indeed unscented. There is no scent to this stuff. There are some essential oil extracts–chamomile, lavender–but very far down the ingredient list; my skin is irritated (rash) by lavender above a certain amount, and this was definitely below it. But worth knowing it’s there if you’re more irritable than me…
A pro for those with scent issues: be that a personal dislike, or dermatological and respiratory irritation, intolerance, and full allergies. Also a pro for anyone who might want to add scent to their haircare, for a personalised tailored version: be that with a favourite scent (if you’re OK with the alcohol in most scents), or using essential oils, and/or using hydrosols like rosewater.
Pro #2: no irritation. Irritable scalp here, with mild eczema (hence why using unscented minimalist hair stuff).
Pro #3: the cheapest of JMO’s shampoos.
Pro #4: packaging. I particularly love the labelling and fonts. Beautifully minimalist.
Pro #5: it will clean hair. Usual method here: wash twice, first wash is an approximate one (to loosen dirt etc.), second wash more thorough–still being gentle though–with shampoo left on for a good 1-2 minutes; meanwhile washing rest of self in shower. Then rinse out, condition, leave in conditioner for a couple of minutes, rinse out, and a final blast of cold water to seal cuticles. Using this method, with almost all shampoos, hair will be clean. This one too.
Con #1: But hair was beyond clean: dried out, once I’d conditioned and dried hair (drying naturally). Admittedly, I’ve had similar results with every other JMO shampoo I’ve tried–evening primrose, zinc & sage–except one: the amazing but as amazingly pricey honey & hibiscus. (Haven’t used the lavender & rosemary, for lavender reasons; not used the cider one, as I don’t use anything that needs clarifying removal.). The feel of the Bare was very like that of the Evening Primrose, so if you liked that, you might well like this.
YMMV: a lot will depend on individual hair and scalp. Hair here: normal, slightly dry ends, long (beyond bra), fine, dense/thick, slightly wavy, strong (doesn’t break easily) but prone to tangling. Scalp: slightly dry, prone to drying out, eczema, easily irritated, skin is also thin so easily scratched. The only post-wash stuff I use is Phytodéfrisant (also unscented), no blow-drying or other processing/interference.
Con #2: price/functional effectiveness relationship. Amongst other unscented shampoos, I’ve had similar (OK but not altogether satisfactory) results from Elave, E45, Free & Clear, Jason, Lavera Neutral, Nature Clean, Whole Foods own-brand 365, and indeed clarifying shampoos like the old (pre-J&J-takeover) Neutrogena one, which back in the day–20 years ago in the UK–was one of the only unscented shampoos available. The other two being E45 and the old Aveda unscented one you used to be able to buy from salons.
Slightly better results from Earth Science and Urtekram fragrance-free.
Best results of all from Avalon Organics Olive & Grapeseed fragrance-free moisturizing shampoo: which works out 1/4 of the price.
Costs CAD17.00 for 236 ml / 8 fl oz from JMO online; slightly cheaper in the US, and available in some health-food stores (WF for one) in the US. Cruelty-free, using organic, fairtrade, biodegradable ingredients where possible, recyclable packaging. Like most of the other JMO products, this one is also vegan.
INGREDIENTS: Aloe barbadensis (aloe vera leaf juice) gel,* aqua (water), decyl glucoside, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl sulfoacetate, babassuamidopropyl betaine, panthenol, guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein. sodium pca, hyaluronic acid, sorbitol, arginine, serine, threonine, linum usitatissimum (flaxseed) seed oil,* borago officinalis (borage) seed oil,* helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil,* simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil,* oenothera biennis (evening primrose) oil,* soy tocopherols, symphytum officinale (comfrey) leaf extract,* chamomilla recutica (chamomile) flower extract,* lavandula angustifolia (lavender) flower/leaf/stem extract,* urtica dioica (nettle) root extract,* equisetum hiemale (horsetail) leaf/stem extract,* achillea millefolium (yarrow) extract,* camellia sinensis (white tea) extract,* salix alba (willow) bark extract,* sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate
* NOP Certified Organic

Avalon Organics Botanicals – Olive & Grape Seed Moisturizing Shampoo – Fragrance Free  rated 5 of 5 gingerrama on 5/2/2011 5:05:00 PM

I have been looking for a decent fragrance-free shampoo for ages: I have on and off eczema, sensitive fragile skin, and an irritable scalp and neck. Skin otherwise normal to dry; hair long (past bra-strap), fine, dense/thick, slightly wavy, and slightly dry.
I’d tried this one out some months ago, and been unimpressed. Tried it again and used it properly: magic. No irritation, yes it IS moist, hair and scalp happy. Also, it cleans out at least some silicones: I’m also using Aveda smooth infusion style-prep (for the frizzies, air-drying), which contains dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone. Ditto for phenyl trimethicone (in another styling thing, used briefly prior to skin irritation). No SLS (the laurYl one)–I’m supposed to avoid it for reasons of eczema–and the detergents are mild but work: sodium lauryglucosides hydroxypropylsulfonate, cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside; of these, the first–a sulfonated alkyl polyglucosides (SAPGs)–is a seriously good alternative to SLS (and indeed SLES–though it’s not an issue on my skin) in terms of performance, but with lower risk of irritation.
Straight out the bottle, this is a colourless liquidy gel. It has, as promised, no scent. There are some tricks to using it. Here is the first: not very tricky but–brush hair out thoroughly before washing; if washing with head upside down (my usual), brush hair that way too.
Second trick: mix with a little water in palm of hand, rather than applying directly to hair. It will lather a little. Do this, with a small quantity, then distribute between both hands, and apply to head (I do this with head upside down), massaging the scalp gently and approximately–this is just to loosen up dirt etc. It won’t really lather, and you may feel it’s not doing anything. Don’t worry, it is; let it do its thing at its own pace, don’t rush or force it, and scrub at hair and scalp. Just do this rapid approximate first wash, then rinse. Let water run through hair, don’t try to comb through with hands.
Trick the third: wash a second time: this time with more shampoo, again mixed with water in palm of hand, and massage a little more forcefully. Still, no scrubbing and tearing. You’ll probably find yourself with more lather than before. Leave shampoo on for a good minute or so; wash rest of self in shower in the meantime. Hair should feel slightly rough: the cuticle has lifted up: that’s OK, just be careful and don’t tear at it. Rinse (again, no pulling hair). And condition, leaving conditioner to absorb (between the lifted “scales”) for at least a couple of minutes. I’m following this with the matching conditioner (which has been my regular everyday one for some months, and is one of my favourite conditioners ever, high end or low) or the John Masters Organics unscented one.
Four: a final rinse with cool to cold water. As cold as you can take it. The old trick of flattening down the cuticles, “sealing in” moisture as the hair cools. Sound like witch-doctory but makes a difference: hair is glossier, fuller, less tangle-prone, and neither greases up nor dries out as fast as it does (IME) without this final rinse.
The result, afterwards, is nice clean shiny smooth hair. All well and good, and true of various other shampoos. But: some comparisons. This is the moistest fragrance-free shampoo I’ve used, and nearly as moist as my favourite more scented ones (ex. Phytojoba, Beauty Without Cruelty) that I can’t use right now. How to tell: less hair coming out when you wash, being easy to comb through afterwards, not being a tangled mess when it’s just been washed and you’re about to apply conditioner, not being a tangled mess afterwards, hair being combable-through after you’ve slept on it, less hair breakage while washing and after once dry, hair being smooth and sleek and strong–rather than dry, dull, breakable, what is often described as “like straw.”
Other fragrance-free shampoos tried, that were not as good, and indeed rather drying and stripping: Paula’s Choice all-over hair & body shampoo, Everyday Shea (their body wash actually works better as a shampoo: and better than these others being compared here…), Free & Clear, Cliniderm, Earth Science, Earth Safe, Jason, Nature Clean, John Masters Organics “bare” (though their unscented conditioner is fabulous).
2nd best, though still not as moisturising as the Avalon: A’Kin, Desert Essence, Urtekram, Lavera Neutral, Druide (though there is a slight odour to it).
Costs around USD/CAD5.00-8.00 for 325 ml. Cruelty-free, with many organic and otherwise laudably-produced ingredients, and available online, from various health-food stores, and from some supermarkets (here in Canada anyway).
INGREDIENTS: Purified Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Lauryglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Decyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Panthenol, Allantoin, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Citric Acid, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin.

Phyto – Phytoprogenium Intelligent Shampoo  rated 4 of 5 gingerrama on 2/5/2011 9:14:00 PM

Good basic shampoo, particularly recommended for sensitive scalp and surrounding skin–neck, shoulders, throat. Second-mildest of the Phyto range–the mildest is the kids’ shampoo, ing. for comparison at end of review–and the one with the least scent and that’s easiest to work with (the others can be runny). Also the cheapest: regularly available in big 400 ml pump bottles, Tetrapak refills, and 2-pack deals (c/o French e-tailers).
Phytoprogenium is, as promised, nice and gentle on the scalp. Low pH, similar to that of skin, a great thing. Yes, it does contain SLES, but as part of a complex of five cleansing agents. Other key functional ingredients: oat extracts (great on sensitive skin), marshmallow and almond oil extracts (moisturising), panthenol.
Hair here, for reference: fine, thick/dense, normal to slightly dry, slightly wavy, long (bra/mid-back); not coloured, textured, otherwise treated; and left to air-dry. Skin fine, irritable/reactive; scalp normal to dry. Currently in mildly eczematic mode. Shampoo tested out over 3 months, used every 2-3 days.
Phytoprogénium cleans scalp and hair. I’m no more convinced than anyone else by the “intelligent” business, but as the stuff works, I’ll be generous and not knock a lippie off for spouting silly marketing nonsense. Some of their words of wisdom are worthwhile, though: following the Phyto directions to wash twice does seem to make a difference. On the other hand, it works with any other shampoo too. In shower, thoroughly drench hair, pour a small quantity of shampoo into palm of hand, rub palms together, apply to scalp, use pads of fingertips to massage gently and approximately but quickly–just to distribute–then rinse out. Drench hair again, apply second lot of shampoo, massage more thoroughly. Leave to sit for about 2 minutes–I tend to attend to the washing of face and rest of person in that time–then rinse out. Then condition.
Other tips: (1) wash hair with head upside down–uses less shampoo, easier to rinse. When rinsing, don’t run hands through hair: just water. Reduces risk of pulling hair out while it’s in a highly-detachable state. Condition upside down too: easier to get it down lengths of hair and avoid scalp. (I then resume upright position, leave conditioner on for a few minutes, then rinse out, still upright. Again avoiding running hands through hair, or indeed a comb: weight of water detangles hair just fine.)
(2) It’s great on my scalp, but not moisturising enough on hair. On that second wash, I do scalp first, then remove excess shampoo-foamy stuff, mix in a couple of drops of jojoba oil, and smooth that through lengths of hair.
So I can use this every few washes, or if I’m going into more eczematic mode, but found it drying on hair ends when used longer term for every wash. I tested this out by comparing results when using the same conditioner, but different shampoo (3-week test period for each combination). I do still prefer Phytojoba: alas, more expensive, but better on my hair–ex. ends not dry.
Costs around USD/CAD 22-26 for a 200 ml bottle; in the EU, EUR 7-9 for the same, and online, EUR12-15 for 400 ml (tip: they’re sometimes listed on sites under “Phytosolba” or “Ales.”). Phyto are cruelty-free and use a lot of sustainable and ethically sourced ingredients; products are well-tested on humans, including sensitive ones.
INGREDIENTS: Althea Officinalis Root Extract (Marshmallow root), Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate (derived from coconut oil), PEG-4 Rapeseedamine (from rapeseed), Lauryl Glucoside, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Cocamidipropyl Betaine (from coconut oil), Xylitol (from bran, wood, and straw), Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Zanthoxylum Alatum Fruit Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Polyquaternium-10 (from wood cellulose); Cetearyl Glycoside, Maltodextrin, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Xanthan Gum, Lactitol (derived from milk), Panthenol (Provitamin B5), Phytantriol, Glycerin, Lauryl Pyrrolidone, Sodium Chloride, Polyquaternium-7, Propylene Glycol, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Parfum (Fragrance), tetrasodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Sodium Benzoate, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Polyaminopropyl Biguanide, Citric Acid.
PETIT PHYTO/ENFANT children’s shampoo–comparison of ingredients; it’s sulfate-free: Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Aqua, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauryl Glucoside (from coconut oil), Disodium Ricinoleamido Mea-Sulfosuccinate (from castor oil), Ceteareth-60 Myrystyl Glycol, PEG-15 Cocopolyamine (from coconut oil), Sodium Chloride, Sucrose Cocoate, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Fruit Extract, Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Glycerin (from palm/coconut oil), Polysorbate 20, Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolized Soy Protein (from soybeans), Parfum (Fragrance), PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate, Propylene Glycol, Tromethamine, Citric Acid, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid, Beeswax/Cera Alba, Methylisothiazolinone, Glucose, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Lactoperoxidase, Glucose Oxidase, Potassium Iodide, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Potassium Thiocynate.

Klorane – gentle shampoo with oat milk ( frequent use)  rated 3 of 5 gingerrama on 9/4/2010 7:08:00 PM

NB this is NOT the dry shampoo in a can, but the trad/usual shampoo, liquid, in a bottle. Some reviewers seem to have been confused.
Decent simple shampoo, that cleans hair, whilst being gentle to scalp and other surrounding skin (neck, mainly). Needs more technique to use (and, let’s face it, hair-washing in a hurry i.e. in normal circumstances is neither the time nor the place). Danger of tangling hair and drying it out.
I bought it for Beloved as it was on special offer, 400 ml for the price of 200. Used it once out of curiosity, then started using it myself from time to time. My hair is long, fine, dense/thick, slightly wavy, and tends to the drier end of the “normal” spectrum. Gets frizzy and/or tangled if I use hair stuff that’s not sufficiently moisturising. Untreated, usually air-dried. Skin normal, slightly dry, sensitive.
Previous main shampoo: Phytojoba. Other main current shampoo (11/2010, using this one mostly these days): Avalon Organics fragrance-free moisturising olive & grapeseed oil, plus matching conditioner. I prefer the Avalon to Klorane Oat: more moisturising, my hair being drier these days.
The Klorane is a very runny liquid consitnency. Some slight smell, but mild and sort of baby-ish: oaty, very slightly almondy, that “cereal” smell.* It does the job of cleaning hair, keeps it clean for 2-3 days, and doesn’t irritate scalp. Works well alone, also works well with a more moisturising shampoo or wash mixed in; done this mixed with other shampoos or a splodge of Everyday Shea unscented moisturising body wash, on the second wash: pour out into palm of hand, mix both splodges there, then apply to hair and scalp. Particularly if hair is very dirty–ex. hair not washed for for 3-4 days and pretty grimy due to long weekend hiking and camping.
Caveats: While you can get this stuff to work, it’s not the easiest shampoo to work with, hence a 3 overall. First thing in the morning before work is not a time I want to be being pernickety, especially if I’ve stuck myself under a shower as part of the waking-up process.
Method:
Before washing hair, I brush it out thoroughly (Mason Pearson mixed boar/nylon brush), brush upside down, and wash hair with head upside down. Shampoo is easier to distribute this way, hair less tangled, and less hair comes out when washing it; helped by rubbing at it less.
Contrary to instructions, I wash hair twice: both times with very wet well-saturated hair, the first time a quick impressionistic lather concentrating on the scalp–really just to loosen dirt–then rinsed out fast, and the second time a longer, but gentle, massage of the scalp, leaving shampoo to run down the length of the hair, but not rubbing it. I leave the second wash in for a minute or so, hair piled on top of head, while washing rest of self. Rinse off (head down again), and squeeze out water (using facecloth). Apply conditioner, keeping away from the hair roots and concentrating on the length and ends; then rinse that out pretty much immediately after. Wrap hair in towel, rinse rest of self, etc. I also use leave-in conditioner (or just regular conditioner, used as a leave-in) as needed, at the ends; and Phytodéfrisant on the wavier bits. Then leave hair to dry naturally.
Hair is soft, smooth, in good condition. I can’t blame that entirely on this shampoo: technique may help, as well as lovely soft water, and the usual outside factors like diet, stress, sleep. And not using elastic bands, even the no-snag ones: on ponytails for ex., switched to just fabric (stretchy head-band) wrapped round a few times.
Cheap: this was CAD8.00 for 400 ml. While I use slightly more than with the more concentrated Phytojoba, it’s still massively cheaper (vs. $24 for 200 ml, i.e. 6x the price). Cruelty-free (and in the case of this shampoo I think vegan?), like other Klorane products and like all the Pierre Fabre group brands (Avène, A-Derma, Ducray, Galénic, Furterer). Widely available in pharmacies & supermarkets in France, in pharmacies elsewhere in Europe, Canada (SDM & LD), some online US stores.
INGREDIENTS: Aqua (water), sodium laureth sulfate, propylene glycol, coco-glucoside, lauryl betaine, sodium chloride, ceteareth-60 myristyl glycol, avena sativa (oat) kernel extract, benzoic acid, citric acid, disodium EDTA, parfum (fragrance), inulin, methylisothiazolinone, sodium cocoyl glutamate, styrene/acrylates copolymer, xanthan gum
* Dislike the smell? Add a few drops of essential oil, whatever fits your fancy and doesn’t irritate. Shake well. You may need to reshake before each use. Haven’t done so with this stuff, but in the past I’ve added chamomile, sandalwood, neroil/orange flower water, rose-petal. 

Nature’s Gate – Hemp Nourishing Shampoo  rated 4 of 5 gingerrama on 5/30/2010 12:08:00 AM

(UPDATE 06/2010: Good, but there’s better. Currently back with my old Phytojoba, mixed 50:50 with Everyday Shea Unscented Moisturizing Body Wash. For better effects.) Full label*: “Hemp Nourishing Shampoo for dry and frizzy hair. With herbal extracts to naturally promote silky, smooth hair.” It’s not a 5, but this is definitely on 4 lippies now that the initial test-period has proven successful. And the best cheaper shampoo I’ve found so far.
A very decent shampoo, that cleanses AND moisturises. At a price that’s more than fair. I picked it out as the formula looked like the most moisturising of those NG shampoos available at my local purveyor’s; containing many of the same key ingredients as the old Jason EFA and Hemp shampoos (which weren’t that good in person) or the very good Faith in Nature Hemp & Meadowfoam shampoo. Major ingredients (NB moisturising, they can’t actually *nourish*–just saying): detergents (inc. SLES), hemp seed oil, borage oil, jojoba oil, panthenol. I added a splash of jojoba oil for good measure (shaking bottle before use).
Hair here: fine, dense, mixture of wavy and straight, past shoulder-length. Basically normal and healthy, and untreated (no colouring, texture, blow-drying and other styling, etc.). Tends towards dry ends, and scalp can be dry and easily irritated; scalp and hair both grease up with hair stuff that’s too heavy, but hair dried and breaks if not moist enough. Needs delicate balance…
The Hemp has a gel-like consistency, and smells spicy. Due to the allspice; and like the spice itself encountered in a kitchen or in food, it smells like a mixture of nutmeg, clove, dash of cinnamon and black pepper, touch of ginger. Yes, that may remind you of Old Spice and spiced rums and so on. All a matter of taste and individual past history and scent-associations. I like it; but I like more manly scents and strongly dislike the sweet, cloying, flowery, and fruity. The scent disappears fast. NG’s lighter-weight Herbal hair stuff smells similar, by the way.
Application: I double-cleanse. A first rapid wash, then rinse, then a second one where I massage the shampoo into scalp and run it down the hair length, then pile on top of head and get on with washing rest of self in shower. After a few minutes rinse out, then condition. Using Aubreys Organics GPB conditioner currently; might try the matching conditioner at some point, but I’m loving the GPB and using it up before going off on any new adventures.
It does produce quite a bit of fine lather (note that it does contain SLES as part of its cleansing base), but so far is gentle. No irritation or dryness on scalp or back of neck. Rinsing after the 2nd cleanse, hair is clean (on the squeaky side) but not dried out, and not tangled. That’s important: I have fine hair but lots of it, and the problem is finding a shampoo that moisturises without weighing hair down and greasing it up; and that’s OK on the scalp.
Once dried, hair is smooth, with body and swing. Conditioner is still going to be the main cause for hair being in good nick afterwards, but this shampoo is doing its part–at least in not being counter-productive.
No ‘cones, cruelty-free, pretty widely available from health-food stores and online, and cheap as chips: on special for CAD5.99 for 532 ml / 18 oz, usually seems to be around CAD6.00-9.00. Comparative stuff: Other current shampoo–that I’m trying to get off, because it’s very expensive: Phytojoba. Been using it for a whole year; it is wonderful. Previous likes included some Aveda, L’Occitane, Faith in Nature, Kerastase Bain satin 1, Nexxus Phyto Organics Hydruss, and assorted other moisturising shampoos often with a fair bit of jojoba oil in them. If I move over from Phytojoba to the Hemp, that’s high flattery indeed. Even if I just alternate between them, my bank balance still comes out a winner.
INGREDIENTS: Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamide MEA, Cannabis Sativus (Hemp) Seed Oil, Ruscus Aculeatus (Butcher’s Broom) Root Extract, Pimenta Dioica (Allspice) Leaf Extract, Sapindus Mukurossi (Jaboncillo) Fruit Extract, Silybum Marianum (Milk Thistle) Ethyl Ester, Sambucus Nigra (Elder) Flower Extract, Chrysanthemum Coccineum Flower Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Borago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Sodium Chloride, Fragrance, Caramel.
* What the manufacturers say: “Gently cleanses hair and helps maintain natural moisture balance. Hair is nourished with essential fatty acids from Hemp Seed Oil and nutrients from Panthenol (Provitamin B5), Borage Seed and Jojoba Oil. The repairing elements of Milk Thistle, Allspice, and Jaborandi make this shampoo the perfect choice for dry, or frizzy hair, leaving it silky, soft and smooth.”

Phyto – Phytojoba Shampoo  rated 5 of 5 gingerrama on 7/4/2009 9:07:00 AM

[UPDATE 03/2011: Had a brief period of respite–using Phytoprogénium mixed with jojoba oil, during return of eczema and increased skin sensitivity. Now back to Phytojoba, all fine and well and happy.]
[UPDATE 06-09/2010: Still loving it. Have also used it mixed with Klorane Gentle Oat Milk shampoo and/or a small splodge of Everyday Shea Unscented Moisturizing Body Wash, which lightens the cost considerably, for good results.]
Been testing out Phyto shampoos, and this is the favourite by a long shot. I’d used it about 15 years ago and loved it then; back to loving it now, and it’s one of things that have saved my hair from dessication disaster. Main ingredients: cornflower and mallow aqueous extracts and cleansing base; then jojoba oil, soy protein, panthenol, and polyquaternium-10.
Excellent on normal hair that’s slightly dry towards the ends and can get greasy roots and and itchy scalp quite easily, depending on products used. Preference for gentler shampoos (but not too gentle, should clean) that are more moisturising; no issues here with SLS and SLES in better-quality shampoos (where that’s just part of the cleansing complex), but have had issues in heavily-sulfated ones (where it’s mainly that plus water).* Untreated hair here; fine but thick; slightly wavy in parts.
I’d been using Aveda Brilliant shampoo before (lovely, cleans well, smells fab) and Giovanni Direct leave-in conditioner (great for a while, then hair dried out – tangled, dull, grotty). Moved on to the Phytobaume conditioner, and Phyto 7 on lengths and ends afterwards. Then used John Masters Organics Citrus & Neroli Detangler for a while–was OK, then had some scalp issues.Then moved over to Aubreys Organics GPB conditioner: favourite so far, and have been using this combo for some months now. Phyto 7 on ends between washes.
Hair in excellent condition: soft, smooth, shiny, wavy bits tamed but not flattened out, no frizzies, scalp content. Washing hair every other day or everd third day; my usual test is that if hair greases up by day 2, the stuff’s too moisturising; if it’s still dry on day 4, and/or there’s been itchy scalp, then not enough.
Phytojoba is in a 200 ml aluminium bottle, with a screw top. Some Phyto shampoos are also sometimes–as occasional special offers–available in 400 ml pump-bottle and Tetrapak containers (mainly their highest seller, Phytoprogenium). 3 for packaging quality as the screw top and rigid bottle are a bit of a pain, especially as the shampoo is rather milky, so there’s a serious risk of pouring $$$ down the drain accidentally. I decanted into an old flip-top squeezy bottle. So that’s fine.
The shampoo itself is very liquid, but not much is needed, so long as hair is well saturated first. The main trick is to massage it well into the scalp, gently down the hair length, and then leave it on – like a conditioner – for a good two to four minutes or so. Then it rinses out clean, and hair is nicely detangled. Very different effect from rinsing out straight away. Usually no second shampoo is needed. I follow this with the Phytobaume conditioner (again, left on for a couple of minutes). It’s no waste of time, honest – do rest of usual showering stuff in the meantime.
Smells of coconut. Some traces of vanilla and citrus; general effect on my nose is somewhat pina colada. Not too sweet. Some may like, some not. Disappears fast as you’re massaging it in, and no trace afterwards.
Like other Phyto products, no animal testing but very solid lab testing and research record. Expensive, though: EUR 8.50-10.00 online, 18.00-19.00 in shops, GBP 10.00, USD 20.00. Other Phyto shampoos tested: Phytoprogenium (good, but not as moisturising); Phytolactum (OK, slightly drier still); Phytoapaisant (OK, not as detangling as Phytojoba, and disliked scent). Didn’t try the several others for other hair types, but there’s a whole bunch more for oilier, drier, curly, coloured, fine, and thinning hair. I’ve been playing around with some other moisturising shampoos in between; the best of these have been Nature’s Gate Hemp (good, but not as good as Phytojoba I’m afraid) and Everyday Shea Unscented Moisturizing Body Wash (nearly as good, great on the scalp, and a fabulous all-over multipurpose wash).
INGREDIENTS: Centaurea cyanus (cornflower) flower extract**, malva sylvestris (mallow) extract**, sodium laureth sulfate (from coconut oil)**, PEG-4 rapeseedamide (from colza/rapeseed oil)**, cocamide mipa**, glycol stearate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate**, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil**, water/aqua, cocamidopropyl betaine**, potassium undecylenoyl hydrolysed soy protein (inc. castor oil derivative)**, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate**, panthenol (provitamin B5), polyquaternium-10 (from wood cellulose)**, citric acid, fragrance/parfum, propylene glycol, sodium chloride, phenoxyethanol, ethylparaben, butylparaben, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone.
** Plant origin.
ph 7.0-7.3
Ingredient listing as per manufacturer (from the packaging), and in accordance with EU labelling regulations. Yes, “…extract” means aqueous extract i.e in water. Yes, that’s legal–and indeed one standard nomenclature–otherwise this stuff wouldn’t be allowed to be sold in shops. [And no, this isn’t a small brand, actually: the Pierre Fabre group is one of the heavy-hitters in Europe. FYI.]
*Many of the Phyto shampoos have SLES, usually as one of four or five cleansers in roughly equal proportion in the formula; note that this is not SLS; and if you’re looking for sulfate-free ones, maybe have a look at those for coloured/otherwise treated hair.

Lavera – Basis Mild Shampoo for Normal Hair  rated 4 of 5 gingerrama on 2/19/2009 3:47:00 PM

With honey, panthenol, calendula, chamomile, and rose. Does what it says on the tin: it’s basic, it’s mild, and it’s for that mythical beast, “normal hair.”
The cheap and, well, basic end of Lavera’s hair-care range. Its matching conditioner, which I’d been using previously, works well with the Mild as with other shampoos (previous regular: Aveda Brilliant – see notepad and reviews for others used). The rest of the Lavera hair concoctions have green labels, the Basis Sensitive range is white with aqua bits.* For the super-sensitive, there’s also shower-shampoos in the Neutral and Baby Neutral ranges.
Low-foaming, needs two washes, rinses out easily. Leaves (this) hair clean and not tangled, ready for conditioning. Smells fabulous: green, rose, chamomile. Sniff before you buy, though, these things being highly subjective. The results: hair is smooth, soft, a little bounce (rather than full-on volume). No tangles, brushes out well, and is still in a good state the next morning. Having tried out several “greener” hair-care ranges in recent years – hooked on the scent (I blame Aveda) – Lavera’s is my favourite so far. Unless Weleda resurrect their old Calendula.
The Mild is good on fine, thick, untreated hair; currently just past shoulders; tendencies towards some dryness at the ends and some greasiness at the roots. On balance: approximately average or middling. “Normal” in terms of not having damage that needs repairing; and between extremes of dryness and oiliness. No promises for any other hair.
Performance aside, my main reason for using the Mild is that it’s the best-smelling hair stuff I’ve found aside from Aveda, L’Occitane, and others of that ilk that are at least as expensive. Yet the Basis range is a fraction of the price: GBP/EUR 4.50 – 6.00 for 250 ml; USD 13.90 on lavera.com. Even the expensive “green label” Lavera hair range is about half Aveda’s price: around the GBP/EUR 7.00 – 10.00 mark. And the “green label” does include the luscious Rose Milk shampoo, conditioner, and treatment (tried, adored, will alternate with the Mild). Taking performance, fragrance, price, and green qualities together: beats the competition hands-down.
Packaging: brown opaque squeezy bottle with flip-top cap, plus plasticated labels.
UPDATE: while it’s a lot cheaper than the Aveda, I used it up in a fraction of the time – simply using more on each wash. Back to the Aveda for me, and to being wary of false economy.
INGREDIENTS: Water (Aqua), Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Lauryl Glucoside, Lauroyl Sarcosine, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycerin, Coco Glucoside, Honey (Mel)*, Panthenol, Panthenyl Ethyl Ether, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Glycol Distearate, Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract*, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract*, Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Water*, Echinacea Purpurea (Echinacea) Extract*, Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Extract*, Arnica Montana (Arnica) Flower Extract, Alcohol, Fragrance (Parfum)**, Limonene** – * ingredients from certified organic agriculture – ** natural essential oils
* There are other Basis shampoos: a Shower Shampoo, Vital Shampoo (oilier hair), Regenerative Shampoo, and Balm Shampoo (fine hair). NB if you’re shopping for Lavera online, be warned that “hair” usually just includes the “green label” range, and the others – Basis etc. – will be under the respective range.

Aveda – Pure-Fume Brilliant shampoo  rated 5 of 5 gingerrama on 1/11/2009 11:00:00 AM

Actual name: BRILLIANT SHAMPOO (“pure-fume” hasn’t been in the name in many a year). Updated review, to take into account comparisons with other Aveda shampoos (as at 01/2009).
Used for years. Tried to get off it, as it’s expensive. Failed. It’s not that bad – actually in the second-cheapest Aveda price-range for shampoos. And little is needed: I use less than half the amount I have with other, cheaper, “greener” shampoos – however nice they were – so I think this shampoo qualifies as my mother’s “beware false economes.” Alas, my hair adores this stuff and I’m addicted to the smell: jasmine, rose, pepper, green tea, and ylang ylang.
Abso-blooming-lutely marvellous shampoo. Cleans hair, leaves it soft and shiny; after conditioning, the result is great manageable hair. Very good on thick hair – mine is basically normal, slightly greasy roots, slightly dry ends, fine, slightly wavy, but lots of it. The Brilliant is an interesting range, as it seems to work on a wide range of different hair types, most of which aren’t the target dry/curly group.
In my experience, this is one of the gentlest of Aveda’s shampoos; though does contain ammonium lauryl sulfate, so be aware of that if you’re sensitive to it. To be fair, not much of it, sort of “buffered” by the chamomile and aloe vera, and the other main cleaning agent is babassuamidopropyl betaine. On my scalp, anyway, this is gentle: no irritation, no dry patches, no itchy flaking. Brilliant is light but little is needed, doesn’t weight hair down, does leave it slightly detangled prior to conditioning.
The gentlest one, that is, of Aveda’s shampoos that are appropriate for untreated hair. I would strongly recommend trying out several of the shampoos and conditioners in the tiny bottles before committing; and to commit to a litre bottle (and the pump), as they’re more economical. Better still, make friends with your hairdresser and charm some samples off them. Some comparisons with those other Aveda shampoos, on virgin hair:
— ALSO RECOMMENDED: — Shampure: one of the two cheapest Aveda shampoos, mild and gentle but protein-rich plus avocado oil, and smells heavenly; slightly more drying and tangling than the Brilliant, though;
Scalp Benefits (lovely and mild, I happened to dislike the smell); one price notch (= a teeny bit) more expensive than the Brilliant;
— ALSO RECOMMENDED: Smooth Infusions: very like the Brilliant, but with a lemony-herby smell; gentler cleansing agents (sodium coco/babassu sulfate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, and babassuamidopropyl betaine); one price notch above Be Curly and Scalp Benefits;
— Rosemary Mint: too stripping on me – meant for oilier thinner hair; one of the two cheapest Aveda shampoos;
— Detoxifier: good but wouldn’t use daily – used as a swimming shampoo here – being replaced by another chelating ‘poo; not available in litres, and in process (spring 2009) of being discontinued;
— Be Curly: not used as unsuitable for my hair, being richer as meant for curlier, thicker hair;one price notch (= a teeny bit) more expensive than the Brilliant;
— Pure Abundance: not used as unsuitable for my hair, as meant for oilier hair/scalp; but loving the conditioner; one price notch above Be Curly and Scalp Benefits;
— the old and now dear-departed Sap Moss: for drier hair, and I loved it in cold NE US winter, when I had long hair; the replacement is Dry Remedy, not to be confused with Damage Remedy, and *a lot* more expensive than the shampoos above.
Those for treated hair tend to be even gentler, but richer and greasifying (Damage Remedy and Colour Conserve for ex.). The Brilliant is a compromise between those heavier-but-gentle ones and the lighter-but-harsher others.
250 ml costs approx. EUR 17 / GBP 10 / USD 12. I litre costs EUR (I went cross-eyed, it might have been 42?) / GBP 29 / USD 38. Nuff said, I got my litre online from a UK site, as this was a lot cheaper than in the shops here in Ireland…
INGREDIENTS: Aqueous Extracts: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Camellia Oleifera (Tea) Leaf Extract, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Isostearamidopropyl Morpholine Lactate, Fragrance (Parfum), Polyquaternium-4, Cocamidopropylamine Oxide, Basassuamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Chloride, Citrus Acid, Disodium EDTA, Methylparaben, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone

Faith in Nature Hemp & Meadowfoam Shampoo  rated 4 of 5 gingerrama on 8/27/2008 6:12:00 PM

(normal to dry/damaged hair)
Faith in Nature is a UK company who claim awfully awfully Green and Nice credentials (inc. no animal testing or animal ingredients). And are cheap: GBP 3.99 / EUR 6.50 for a 400 ml bottle – that’s regular drugstore shampoo prices. Also available as 5 litre / GBP 40.00 ish.
Needing to replace my Shampure that’s being miserable, not needing a matchy-matchy conditioner as my current Weleda Rosemary & Ginger is gorgeous, I tried three of their shampoos. This Hemp & Meadowfoam one was lovely – moisturising enough, whilst cleaning hair admirably, and without tearing it out or causing any scalp discomfort. Pleasantly ginger-scented.
Yes, it does contain a sulfate (but apparently one of the less dreaded ones, if you’re worried about or have been hurt by such things). It’s also one of the best “natural” shampoos I’ve used as far as doing its job is concerned: good texture (neither too watery nor too gel-like or creamy), easy to distribute, lathering up a bit, cleans well and evenly.
I also really liked the two other Faith in Nature shampoos I’d tested out, Rosemary and Jojoba. Partly as I was unable to tear myself away from any one of them, I mixed all three together (with a few drops of rosemary oil), and lo, a Frankenpoo is born.
Decanted into an old Aveda liter bottle. Needs a slight shake before application, but so far this is a fabulous shampoo, and it makes me feel all po-mo glowy in the morning, my Unfaithful Supernatural Creature in sham-Shampure clothing.
INGREDIENTS: Aqua (Water from the Lake District), Ammonium laureth sulphate (Vegetable based cleaning agent), Sodium chloride, Polysorbate 20 (Vegetable based emulsifier), Cannabis sativa, PEG 75 Meadowfoam Seed Oil, Cymbopogon citrates, Citrus reticulate, Zingiber officinale, Citrus x paradise, Parfum (natural aroma), Melaluca alternifolia, Limonene, Citral, Geraniol

Faith in Nature Jojoba Shampoo with Vitamin B5  rated 4 of 5 gingerrama on 8/27/2008 6:08:00 PM

(normal to dry hair)
Faith in Nature is a UK company who claim awfully awfully Green and Nice credentials (inc. no animal testing or animal ingredients). And are cheap: GBP 3.99 / EUR 6.50 for a 400 ml bottle – that’s regular drugstore shampoo prices. Also available as 5 litre / GBP 40.00 ish.
Needing to replace my Shampure that’s being miserable, not needing a matchy-matchy conditioner as my current Weleda Rosemary & Ginger is gorgeous, I tried three of their shampoos. This Jojoba one was lovely – moisturising enough, whilst cleaning hair admirably, and without tearing it out or causing any scalp discomfort. Smells mildly of orange and ylang-ylang – but fresh, not too patchouli/moth-ball-esque.
Yes, it does contain a sulfate (but apparently one of the less dreaded ones, if you’re worried about or have been hurt by such things). It’s also one of the best “natural” shampoos I’ve used as far as doing its job is concerned: good texture (neither too watery nor too gel-like or creamy), easy to distribute, lathering up a bit, cleans well and evenly.
I also really liked the two other Faith in Nature shampoos I’d tested out, Rosemary and Hemp & Meadowfoam. Partly as I was unable to tear myself away from any one of them, I mixed all three together (with a few drops of rosemary oil), and lo, a Frankenpoo is born.
Decanted into an old Aveda liter bottle. Needs a slight shake before application, but so far this is a fabulous shampoo, and it makes me feel all po-mo glowy in the morning, my Unfaithful Supernatural Creature in sham-Shampure clothing.
INGREDIENTS: Aqua (Water from the Lake District), Ammonium laureth sulphate (Coconut based cleaning agent), Sodium chloride, Polysorbate 20 (vegetable derived emulsifier), Citrus aurantium (Orange Oil), Panthenol (Provitamin B5), Cananga odorata (Ylang ylang oil), Buxus chinensis (Jojoba oil), Ascodhyllum Nodosum (organic seaweed extract), Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree Oil), Parfum (natural aroma), Limonene, Linalool

Faith in Nature Rosemary Shampoo  rated 4 of 5 gingerrama on 8/27/2008 6:04:00 PM

Very good basic shampoo – originally used as my beloved Aveda Shampure started to misbehave, and I wanted an alternative that tickled my particularly nose-buds. Currently, in line with the lovely Weleda conditioner, that’s rosemary and ginger (but their shampoo is not very good). So the Rosemary shampoo it was.
Faith in Nature is a UK company who claim awfully awfully Green and Nice credentials (inc. no animal testing or animal ingredients). And are cheap: GBP 3.99 / EUR 6.50 for a 400 ml bottle – that’s regular drugstore shampoo prices. Also available as 5 litre / GBP 40.00-ish.
It cleans hair admirably, and without tearing it out or causing any scalp discomfort. Yes, it does contain a sulfate (but apparently one of the less dreaded ones, if you’re worried about or have been hurt by such things). It’s also one of the best “natural” shampoos I’ve used as far as doing its job is concerned: good texture (neither too watery nor too gel-like or creamy), easy to distribute, lathering up a bit, cleans well and evenly. Good invigorating proper rosemary scent.* It is not, however, quite moisturising enough. I therefore sallied forth and bought two other Faith in Nature shampoos, Jojoba and Hemp & Meadowfoam, mixed all three together (with a few drops of rosemary oil), and lo, a Frankenpoo is born.
Decanted into an old Aveda liter bottle. Needs a slight shake before application, but so far this is a fabulous shampoo, and it makes me feel all po-mo glowy in the morning, my Unfaithful Supernatural Creature in sham-Shampure clothing.
INGREDIENTS: Aqua (Water from the Lake District), Ammonium laureth sulphate (Coconut based cleaning agent), Sodium chloride, Rosmarinus officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Parfum (natural aroma), Chlorophyllin – copper complex (natural colour), Limonene
* (and, for once, without some manufacturing wit deciding that rosemary is nothing without mint – loathing the R&Mint here – aside from scalp itching, it’s too reminscent of hung-over accidents with toothpaste in the shower)

L’Occitane – Angelica Shampoo  rated 4 of 5 gingerrama on 1/15/2008 9:04:00 AM

THIS REVIEW IS FOR THE NEW VERSION: L’OCCITANE SHAMPOO FOR DRY & DAMAGED HAIR / ANGELICA, LAVENDER, & GERANIUM. The old Angelica Shampoo has not been manufactured for some time, nor been available in L’Occitane shops. So any that’s being sold is, errm, aged – vintage, even.
Part of L’Occitane’s Essential Oils/Aromachology range. Full names (c/o bottle and website): Shampoo for Dry and Damaged Hair, with three essential oils: Angelica, Lavender, Geranium. Green plastic bottle, label is dark green and peachy-pink.* I knocked a couple of lippies off on packaging because the cap is tiny, fragile, and will break any minute; and the label is paper (I painted on a layer of clear nail-varnish, as done previously with L’Occitane things that live in the shower).
Excellent gentle shampoo suitable for daily use on normal, untreated hair. Slightly dry; fine; thick; slightly wavy; scalp can be delicate. Works well and smells amazing – the scent is of course a matter of taste; I find it smells too sweet for part of the month, delectable the rest.
Now, how well it works: nice to the scalp, hair feels clean but moist. I shampooed twice: the first time with a small amount, just rubbed in lightly, and rinsed immediately; the second time with a little more (about maybe an inch diameter), massaged in properly, adding a little water to foam up. I then left it on for a few minutes while doing the rest of my cleaning. (Just of me, not my whole domestic habitat.) Rinsed – this stuff rinses out very efficiently, and if you leave it on as you would an old-fashioned conditioner, it already smooths out hair nicely. Followed by conditioner, rinse, towel-blotted hair, detangled with wide-tooth comb, and hair left to dry naturally. Hair is smooth, soft, slightly bouncy. Shows signs of being neither over-clean (and dry) nor over-moisturised; so it’s neither wild/flyaway nor flat, and the wave is still there, but in a manageable way.
Ravishing scent: very like the herbal aspect of Neutrogena Rainbath (old 1980s/early 90s formula, before they were taken over and products changed). Also smells like linden tea, which I associate with tea and cake at the end of weekend walks when a child. As linden leaf is one of the first ingredients, I guess it all makes sense. The scent, as others have said, does linger on your hair. The scent is still there even though I didn’t use the matching conditioner – I guess using it, or the leave-in spray, might emphasize the scent the more.
Costs around EUR 13.50 – 17.50 / GBP 11.00 / USD 17.00 for 300 ml/10.1 fl. oz. bottle. It *is*, alas, comparatively more expensive in the US than in Europe.
INGREDIENTS: AQUA/WATER, DISODIUM LAURETH SULFOSUCCINATE, TEA-LAURYL SULFATE, LAURETH-2, TILIA PLATYPHYLLOS EXTRACT, LAURDIMONIUM HYDROXYPROPYL HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN, PEG-120 METHYL GLUCOSE DIOLATE, SODIUM CHLORIDE, PARFUM/FRAGRANCE, PEG/PPG-14/4 DIMETHICONE, COCO-GLUCOSIDE, GLYCERYL OLEATE, PPG-26-BUTETH-26, PANTHENOL, PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL, POLYQUATERNIUM-7, POLYQUATERNIUM-10, LIMONENE, LAVANDULA ANGUSTIFOLIA (LAVENDER) OIL, LINALOOL, ANGELICA ARCHANGELICA ROOT OIL, PELARGONIUM GRAVEOLENS FLOWER OIL, METHYLCHLOROISOTHJIAZOLINONE, METHYLISOTHIAZOLINONE.
* This is the replacement for L’Occitane’s old and much-loved Angelica Shampoo. I mention the label colour as not to be confused with the burgundy-mauve ‘poo+con for normal/fine hair, with artemisia etc.: quite different – I’d tried a sample, found it drying and tangling

L’Occitane – Angelica Lavender Geranium  rated 4 of 5 gingerrama on 1/15/2008 9:00:00 AM

THIS REVIEW IS FOR THE NEW VERSION: L’OCCITANE SHAMPOO FOR DRY & DAMAGED HAIR / ANGELICA, LAVENDER, & GERANIUM. The old Angelica Shampoo has not been manufactured for some time, nor been available in L’Occitane shops. So any that’s being sold is, errm, aged – vintage, even.
Part of L’Occitane’s Essential Oils/Aromachology range. Full names (c/o bottle and website): Shampoo for Dry and Damaged Hair, with three essential oils: Angelica, Lavender, Geranium. Green plastic bottle, label is dark green and peachy-pink.* I knocked a couple of lippies off on packaging because the cap is tiny, fragile, and will break any minute; and the label is paper (I painted on a layer of clear nail-varnish, as done previously with L’Occitane things that live in the shower).
Excellent gentle shampoo suitable for daily use on normal, untreated hair. Slightly dry; fine; thick; slightly wavy; scalp can be delicate. Works well and smells amazing – the scent is of course a matter of taste; I find it smells too sweet for part of the month, delectable the rest.
Now, how well it works: nice to the scalp, hair feels clean but moist. I shampooed twice: the first time with a small amount, just rubbed in lightly, and rinsed immediately; the second time with a little more (about maybe an inch diameter), massaged in properly, adding a little water to foam up. I then left it on for a few minutes while doing the rest of my cleaning. (Just of me, not my whole domestic habitat.) Rinsed – this stuff rinses out very efficiently, and if you leave it on as you would an old-fashioned conditioner, it already smooths out hair nicely. Followed by conditioner, rinse, towel-blotted hair, detangled with wide-tooth comb, and hair left to dry naturally. Hair is smooth, soft, slightly bouncy. Shows signs of being neither over-clean (and dry) nor over-moisturised; so it’s neither wild/flyaway nor flat, and the wave is still there, but in a manageable way.
Ravishing scent: very like the herbal aspect of Neutrogena Rainbath (old 1980s/early 90s formula, before they were taken over and products changed). Also smells like linden tea, which I associate with tea and cake at the end of weekend walks when a child. As linden leaf is one of the first ingredients, I guess it all makes sense. The scent, as others have said, does linger on your hair. The scent is still there even though I didn’t use the matching conditioner – I guess using it, or the leave-in spray, might emphasize the scent the more.
Costs around EUR 13.50 – 17.50 / GBP 11.00 / USD 17.00 for 300 ml/10.1 fl. oz. bottle. It *is*, alas, comparatively more expensive in the US than in Europe.
INGREDIENTS: AQUA/WATER, DISODIUM LAURETH SULFOSUCCINATE, TEA-LAURYL SULFATE, LAURETH-2, TILIA PLATYPHYLLOS EXTRACT, LAURDIMONIUM HYDROXYPROPYL HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN, PEG-120 METHYL GLUCOSE DIOLATE, SODIUM CHLORIDE, PARFUM/FRAGRANCE, PEG/PPG-14/4 DIMETHICONE, COCO-GLUCOSIDE, GLYCERYL OLEATE, PPG-26-BUTETH-26, PANTHENOL, PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL, POLYQUATERNIUM-7, POLYQUATERNIUM-10, LIMONENE, LAVANDULA ANGUSTIFOLIA (LAVENDER) OIL, LINALOOL, ANGELICA ARCHANGELICA ROOT OIL, PELARGONIUM GRAVEOLENS FLOWER OIL, METHYLCHLOROISOTHJIAZOLINONE, METHYLISOTHIAZOLINONE.
* This is the replacement for L’Occitane’s old and much-loved Angelica Shampoo. I mention the label colour as not to be confused with the burgundy-mauve ‘poo+con for normal/fine hair, with artemisia etc.: quite different – I’d tried a sample, found it drying and tangling.

Aveda – Detoxifier [DISCONTINUED]  rated 5 of 5 gingerrama on 12/5/2007 7:00:00 AM

I’ve recently changed over to this as my swimming shampoo, on advice. Hair was in good condition, but not guaranteed to stay that way what with swimming 3 to 4 times a week.
It does the job, with verve and panache.
Slightly brown colour, usual shampoo texture, herby-earthy smell. Works on hair very fast. It removes all scent of chlorine (even on scalp), and also from the rest of me, and swimsuit – bonus! I follow this with a good moisturising conditioner (my usual L’Occitane Olive Harvest Daily Conditioner). All this works well on shortish (just above shoulder), fine, thick, slightly dry hair.
Hair is in its usual state afterwards – light, bouncy, tangle-free-but that may as much to do with the conditioner, of course.
Recommended for swimming purposes, on normal to slightly dry, untreated hair. Not sure about clarifying – I use no products, so have never gone there. Might be too strong on coloured or otherwise treated hair, or on a more sensitive scalp (see other reviews for advice there).
Price: EUR 15.00 / GBP 9.50 / USD 10.00.
INGREDIENTS: aqueous extracts: sage leaf extract, aloe vera leaf juice, ammonium lauryl sulfate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, lauramidopropyl betaine, babassuamidopropyl betaine, sodium gluconate, erythorbic acid, panthenol, fragrance, linalool, limonene, dimethicone peg-7 cocoate, isostearamidopropyl morpholine lactate, cocamidopropryl pg-dimonium chloride phosphate, peg-6 cocamide, polyquaternium-10, sodium chloride, maltodextrin, tetrasodium edta, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone.

L’Occitane – Olive Shampoo  rated 4 of 5 gingerrama on 10/25/2007 7:30:00 AM

Full product name: Olive Daily Shampoo – in the Olive Harvest range. Just moved over to this and its matching conditioner from the Jason Hemp Moisturising pair, which in turn replaced Aveda Brilliant. Excellent for normal to dry hair that’s fine but thick, and shortish -chin-length growing out towards shoulders; this particular hair alternates a gentle moisturising S+C with a mild protein-rich pair (Shampure, every third wash now). Washed every day or two. Sensitive skin including scalp, can be irritated.
The Olive comes in a plastic bottle with flip-top lid. No disasters here; if you don’t like it, decant it – Muji do lovely clear plastic bottles with pump dispensers. The shampoo itself is thick, looks like conditioner in the hand. It’s concentrated, so only a small amount is needed: in this case, a blob a little under 5 cm/2″ across in the palm of the hand. It foams up when massaged into the hair. Rinses out well. Leaves hair clean, with next to no hair loss (commendable). Then follow with conditioner… The end result is soft, supple, silky, strong, smooth, shiny hair. Fantastic.
Smells lovely, if you like earthy, spicy smells. There’s citrus in there, and maybe cedar/sandalwood, and that olive-greenness. It smells as it does in the bottle, but stronger, so sniffing it in a shop before you buy it is probably a good idea.
It is expensive, and prices seem to vary depending on your country: here in Ireland you’re looking at EUR35.00 for the pair, elsewhere in Europe it’s around EUR20.00-25.00, the same number of pounds sterling, and USD34.00 online.
For this type of hair, and for drier hair that’s still quite fine, it would seem to be an idea to try the Aromachology S+C for Dry and Damaged Hair with Angelica, Lavender, and Geranium (replacement for the Angelica pair). For very dry and thick curly hair, I am told that the Ultra Rich shea butter range is good.
CONS: I have found the Olive too rich for everyday, and leaves hair a bit limp in the long run. I preferred the Angelica – even though it’s supposed to be for drier hair.
INGREDIENTS: WATER, DISODIUM LAURETH SULFOSUCCINATE, TEA-LAURYL SULFATE, ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, DISODIUM LAURYL SULFOSUCCINATE, SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE, ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) FRUIT EXTRACT, LAURDIMONIUM HYDROXYPROPYL HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN, PEG-120 METHYL GLUCOSE DIOLEATE, OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) FRUIT OIL, PEG/PPG-14/4 DIMETHICONE, TETRASODIUM EDTA, PEG-15 COCOPOLYAMINE, PHENOXYETHANOL, FRAGRANCE, HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL, GLYCERIN, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, XANTHAN GUM, POLYQUATERNIUM-10, CITRIC ACID, BENZOIC ACID, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, DEHYDROACETIC ACID, LIMONENE, LINALOOL, GERANIOL

Aveda – Shampure  rated 4 of 5 gingerrama on 10/23/2007 12:09:00 PM

Good mild shampoo for untreated average hair. This particular hair: wavy; fine but thick (fine strands but lots of them); normal to slightly dry; scalp can be dry, and is easily irritated. Hair never chemically enhanced in any way, and left to air-dry. Washed every day or two.
I used this and the accompanying conditioner for many years when I had long hair (down to elbows). Hair was happy. I cut it all off. Hair was not so happy. Tried various different products. Hair was occasionally happy, but seemed to have developed outrageous tastes. Now I am poorer, it’s back to a low-maintenance style and occasional trims by willing family members, rather than regular trips to salons. I tried to reach a compromise on expensive tastes. Thus, the Shampure.
This shampoo works and smells – if you like this sort of thing – divine. Fresh, herby (rosemary and lavender as listed, also hints of marjoram and something greener like cut grass), ylang ylang, and flowers, there’s rose and lily in there. None of the fake fruit nonsense that passes for scent in so many products. Not too girly: The Man uses this too, and indeed was the reason for buying it again after the long hiatus. Useful as a body cleanser too, in case of the sensory emergency that accompanies showering inhumanly early in the morning.
Quite concentrated, so you don’t need much. Therefore not actually prohibitively expensive. Very mild, no silicones, a little EDTA – can be used daily for ages (weeks, months) without any build-up, weighing-down, limpness, flatness. You do need a conditioner afterwards, as with basically any shampoo …
The Shampure can only be recommended for average hair, that isn’t treated or styled, dried, etc., and thus has simpler needs. Any other hair will probably need “more” in its products, and more products. But this is the joy of MUA and its boards – somewhere, here, your perfect potions are waiting for you!
It is expensive – and at least twice the US price in Europe. Boo hiss. But it’s concentrated, so even the small (250 ml) bottle lasts about twice as long as other shampoos I’d tried recently. Look out for the 1 l bottle which is a very good deal; if using it in the shower, get the pump too, or else decant to the smaller bottle.
UPDATE 1: AAAARGH! It turned on me. Scalp dry and itchy, hair fragile and dessicated. Went over to a very basic rosemary shampoo, things improved. Don’t know what happened there: I’d used this happily for years …
UPDATE 2: must be honest: not sure the problem was the Shampure. I’ve used it again subsequently and been fine; basically alternating between this and Brilliant once a week or so (using it when swimming, as ran out of my old Detoxifier). Brushing hair before washing, and using a good conditioner afterwards – no problems.
UPDATE 3: OK, it *is* more drying than the Brilliant. Hair is tangled and slightly brittle after shampoo and rinse, conditioner harder to work through, and hair more tangled and duller once dry. Not as bad as some other shampoos tried out recently, and manageable, but not a patch on the Briliant.
INGREDIENTS: Aqueous extracts: Lavender extract, aloe vera leaf juice, rosemary leaf extract, ammonium lauryl sulfate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, lauramidopropyl betaine, peg-6 cocamide, peg-7 dimethicone isostearate, babassuamidopropyl betaine, hydroxy propyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed brazil nut protein, wheat amino acids, fragrance, geraniol, linalool, benzyl benzoate, citronellol, limonene, grapefruit seed extract, avocado oil, glycerin, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, retinyl palmitate, peg-30 castor oil, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, polysorbate 80, maltodextrin, disodiumedta, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, annatto (Cl 75120)

Jason Natural Cosmetics – Extra Rich Natural E.F.A. Shampoo  rated 2 of 5 gingerrama on 9/6/2007 9:04:00 AM

UPDATE (05/2010): having been through various other (better) shampoos along the way, I may have found an alternative to this, containing some of the same key ingredients. Except it works very much better as a shampoo. Nature’s Gate Hemp nourishing shampoo.
REPLACEMENT FOUND!!!
If you liked the (now defunct?) Jason EFA shampoo, try the Hemp as a replacement – an excellent everyday shampoo for the more sensitive, drier type. From the ingredients listing and product description, this looks like it’s a successor to, or replacement for, the Jason EFA shampoo – now THAT was a beauty. Ingredients follow at bottom of review. Note that this does not contain SLS, but does contain Cones, if these are concerns for you. It is fragranced.
I have a substantial quantity of shortish, wavy, fine hair. Never coloured or otherwise treated. I’ve been looking for a good shampoo for a while, since I discovered that my favourite one (thus far, and for the last couple of years) was prohibitively expensive here in Ireland. Good – that is: suitable for dry hair and sensitive skin; moisturising; containing soothing and smoothing ingredients; and that did the job of cleaning hair and keeping it soft, smooth, moist, and the things that good hair should be.
The Hempster is a slightly milky and gel-like consistency, with a decidedly hemp-ish smell – even, indeed, slightly peppery and spicy. Like other Jason shampoos, it does need two latherings – the first a light one, the second a heavier dose, some scalp-massaging, and I then left it on whilst attending to the cleansing of other body parts. It rinsed out well (and the arresting/arrestable smell departed). After blotting hair dry with a towel, I applied my regular conditioner, etc., etc.
This particular hair is happy, shiny, bouncy, and all good things that good hair should be.
CONS: (1) a bottle doesn’t last long, and
(2) doesn’t clean hair too well in the long run. This can be remedied with weekly use of a deep-cleansing shampoo; in my case, I’m swimming at least a couple of times a week and using Aveda Detoxifier then, so not an issue.
(3) Contains heavier non-water-soluble silicones (cyclomethicone, dimethicone), which I’ve found weigh my hair down, so I’m avoiding them. Moved on to L’Occitane Angelica and back to Aveda Shampure.
INGREDIENTS:
Ingredients:
Aqua (Purified Water)
Sodium Myreth Sulfate
Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Gel*
Decyl Glucoside
Anthemus Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Extract*
Polyquaternium-7
Cyclomethicone
Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
Dimethicone
Calendula Officinalis (Marigold) Flower Extract*
Panthenol (Vit. B5)
Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vit. E)
Equisetum Arvense (Horsetail) Leaf Extract*
Triticum Vulgare (Hydrolyzed Wheat) Protein
Borago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil
Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil
Retinyl Palmitate (Vit. A)
Citric Acid
Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Seed Extract
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Fragrance Oil Blend
Natural Color.
* Certified Organic

Jason Natural Cosmetics – Hemp Super Moisturizing Shampoo  rated 2 of 5 gingerrama on 9/6/2007 9:00:00 AM

UPDATE (05/2010): having been through various other (better) shampoos along the way, I may have found an alternative to this, containing some of the same key ingredients. Except it works very much better as a shampoo. Nature’s Gate Hemp nourishing shampoo.
[DISCONTINUED]
OK everyday shampoo for the more sensitive, drier type. If you liked the (now defunct?) Jason EFA shampoo, try this as a replacement.
I have a substantial quantity of shortish, wavy, fine hair. Never coloured or otherwise treated. I’ve been looking for a good shampoo for a while, since I discovered that my favourite one (thus far, and for the last couple of years) was prohibitively expensive here in Ireland. Good – that is: suitable for dry hair and sensitive skin; moisturising; containing soothing and smoothing ingredients; and that did the job of cleaning hair and keeping it soft, smooth, moist, and the things that good hair should be.
From the ingredients listing and product description, this looks like it’s a successor to, or replacement for, the Jason EFA shampoo (now THAT was a beauty). Ingredients follow at bottom of review. Note that this does not contain SLS, but does contain Cones, if these are concerns for you. It is fragranced, but rates well on the EWG’s beauty product review.
The Hempster is a slightly milky and gel-like consistency, with a decidedly hemp-ish smell – even, indeed, slightly peppery and spicy. Like other Jason shampoos, it does need two latherings – the first a light one, the second a heavier dose, some scalp-massaging, and I then left it on whilst attending to the cleansing of other body parts. It rinsed out well (and the arresting/arrestable smell departed). After blotting hair dry with a towel, I applied my regular conditioner, etc., etc.
This particular hair is happy, shiny, bouncy, and all good things that good hair should be.
CONS: (1) a bottle doesn’t last long, and
(2) doesn’t clean hair too well in the long run. This can be remedied with weekly use of a deep-cleansing shampoo; in my case, I’m swimming at least a couple of times a week and using Aveda Detoxifier then, so not an issue.
(3) Contains heavier non-water-soluble silicones (cyclomethicone, dimethicone), which I’ve found weigh my hair down, so I’m avoiding them. Moved on to L’Occitane Angelica and back to Aveda Shampure.
INGREDIENTS:
Ingredients:
Aqua (Purified Water)
Sodium Myreth Sulfate
Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Gel*
Decyl Glucoside
Anthemus Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Extract*
Polyquaternium-7
Cyclomethicone
Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
Dimethicone
Calendula Officinalis (Marigold) Flower Extract*
Panthenol (Vit. B5)
Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vit. E)
Equisetum Arvense (Horsetail) Leaf Extract*
Triticum Vulgare (Hydrolyzed Wheat) Protein
Borago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil
Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil
Retinyl Palmitate (Vit. A)
Citric Acid
Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Seed Extract
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Fragrance Oil Blend
Natural Color.
* Certified Organic

Paula’s Choice – All Over Hair & Body Shampoo  rated 5 of 5 gingerrama on 8/24/2007 5:23:00 PM

An OK shampoo, but an excellent body (and facial) wash.
Gentle, mild, unperfumed. Its contents include cocoa butter, shea butter, and aloe vera; but also SLES, so if you’re sensitive or fussy around that, All Over is to be avoided. I have used this as an all-in-one top-to-toe cleaning product when traveling light, and suffered no adverse effects. It’s fine to use a shampoo for a couple of days, but after that I found it a little drying.
Avoid the accompanying conditioner though – I made the mistake of buying it, and it produced the worst straw and tangled bush effects since the time I used shampoo as conditioner accidentally once upon a very long time ago. I’m shortsighted and wasn’t wearing my glasses, so just reaching for things blindly, and it was a friend’s bathroom.
I digress and am making excuses: this shampoo good, the matching conditioner bad. I use it mainly as a shower body-wash: one of the best I’ve ever used, cleanses and moisturises without any irritation. Concentrated. Brilliant stuff. Worth the money (and crazy postage to Ireland) – I haven’t found anything else on the current market that’s as good.
UPDATE: a previous reviewer suggests this is a good facial cleanser too. I had tried this before, but only for a couple of days in a row when traveling, and traveling light. All Over does, I can confirm, work well as a gentle facial cleanser. I sort of pre-wash with oil, rinse that off, then wash with the All Over. This works fine for me – but that’s only cleaning off sunscreen and occasionally a dab of concealer and powder on a zitty day; it might not be enough for someone wearing proper full-on makeup.
Anyway, one bottle less in the shower… Tip: It’s worth spending the extra $/EUR 1.95 on a pump.
INGREDIENTS: Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate (mild detergent cleansing agent), Cocamidopropyl Betaine (mild cleansing agent), Lauryl Glucoside (mild cleansing and lather agent), Butylene Glycol (slip agent/water-binding agent), Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (water-binding and anti-static agent), Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, (plant conditioning and water-binding agents), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) (conditioning agent), PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate (surfactant), Polyquaternium-10 (conditioning/detangling agent), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (water-binding agent), Trisodium EDTA (chelating agent), Citric Acid (pH adjuster), Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid (all preservatives and stabilizers).

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