Category: cruelty-free

review: Curelle hair stuff

curelle riche conditionerThe promised six-week trial is over. Time for the verdict. Herewith the review just posted up on MakeupAlley:

CURELLE RICHE CONDITIONER

  • Overall rating ( 1 = worst, 5 = best ): 5 
  • Price ( 1 = dirt cheap, 5 = expensive ): 2
  • Packaging Quality ( 1 = worst, 5 = best ): 4
    [I'd have given a 5 for a pump and for less toxicity on the back label: keep it simple, stick to strengths and positive qualities, of which there are many!!!]
  • Would you buy this products again?: YES

Probably the best unscented conditioner I’ve used; and indeed one of the best, scented or not.  Continue reading →

fun footwear

You all know Adbusters, right?

At least as the most expensive magazine sold in Whole Foods?

(That’s something that cracks me up every time, and especially whenever I’m standing in line behind a yummy mummy yoga bunny my-body-is-a-temple more-money-than-sense label-ridden functionally illiterate twerp. But I digress.)

Well. They’ve moved into footwear. Old news, I know: see this early post about them, in the prototype stage back in summer 2008, plus the usual fun comments. Another way to take over/back the city streets. Kick ass ethically. Grass-roots anarchism, from the ground up, with emphasis on your feet that are on said ground, amongst that herbaceousness. With power to the people who make the shoes too.

blackspot shoes

Continue reading →

some sceptical selections

from online reading of the last while…

Here’s the start, I hope it incites you to continue reading…

I want to start with some apologies. For the record, here and upfront, I apologise for having spent several years ripping up GM crops. I am also sorry that I helped to start the anti-GM movement back in the mid 1990s, and that I thereby assisted in demonising an important technological option which can be used to benefit the environment.

As an environmentalist, and someone who believes that everyone in this world has a right to a healthy and nutritious diet of their choosing, I could not have chosen a more counter-productive path. I now regret it completely.

So I guess you’ll be wondering – what happened between 1995 and now that made me not only change my mind but come here and admit it? Well, the answer is fairly simple: I discovered science, and in the process I hope I became a better environmentalist.

When I first heard about Monsanto’s GM soya I knew exactly what I thought. Here was a big American corporation with a nasty track record, putting something new and experimental into our food without telling us. Mixing genes between species seemed to be about as unnatural as you can get – here was humankind acquiring too much technological power; something was bound to go horribly wrong. These genes would spread like some kind of living pollution. It was the stuff of nightmares.

These fears spread like wildfire, and within a few years GM was essentially banned in Europe, and our worries were exported by NGOs like Greenpeace and Friends of the Earth to Africa, India and the rest of Asia, where GM is still banned today. This was the most successful campaign I have ever been involved with.

This was also explicitly an anti-science movement. We employed a lot of imagery about scientists in their labs cackling demonically as they tinkered with the very building blocks of life. Hence the Frankenstein food tag – this absolutely was about deep-seated fears of scientific powers being used secretly for unnatural ends. What we didn’t realise at the time was that the real Frankenstein’s monster was not GM technology, but our reaction against it.

For me this anti-science environmentalism became increasingly inconsistent with my pro-science environmentalism with regard to climate change. I published my first book on global warming in 2004, and I was determined to make it scientifically credible rather than just a collection of anecdotes.

So I had to back up the story of my trip to Alaska with satellite data on sea ice, and I had to justify my pictures of disappearing glaciers in the Andes with long-term records of mass balance of mountain glaciers. That meant I had to learn how to read scientific papers, understand basic statistics and become literate in very different fields from oceanography to paleoclimate, none of which my degree in politics and modern history helped me with a great deal.

I found myself arguing constantly with people who I considered to be incorrigibly anti-science, because they wouldn’t listen to the climatologists and denied the scientific reality of climate change. So I lectured them about the value of peer-review, about the importance of scientific consensus and how the only facts that mattered were the ones published in the most distinguished scholarly journals.

My second climate book, Six Degrees, was so sciency that it even won the Royal Society science books prize, and climate scientists I had become friendly with would joke that I knew more about the subject than them. And yet, incredibly, at this time in 2008 I was still penning screeds in the Guardian attacking the science of GM – even though I had done no academic research on the topic, and had a pretty limited personal understanding. I don’t think I’d ever read a peer-reviewed paper on biotechnology or plant science even at this late stage.

Obviously this contradiction was untenable. What really threw me were some of the comments underneath my final anti-GM Guardian article. In particular one critic said to me: so you’re opposed to GM on the basis that it is marketed by big corporations. Are you also opposed to the wheel because because it is marketed by the big auto companies?

So I did some reading. And I discovered that one by one my cherished beliefs about GM turned out to be little more than green urban myths.

CCIC / Leaping Bunny update

For information, and so as to present both sides of things. My only additional comment is that we can also see here what happens when people don’t talk to each other, and when one adds in America-centric assumptions / prejudices. Be that in innocence or ignorance of other countries, regions, and legislation; or not caring (cultural imperialism); or not bothering to find out (ditto, plus laziness).

Something that bugs me, given the non-American historical origins of the campaign at hand here (= the British Union for the Abolition of Vivisection). I’m a person of mixed origins and multiple nationalities, and I’m absolutely resolutely NOT a nationalist (I’m an internationalist, partly for sound Socialist reasons), but the British part of me bristles and rankles at a good and very old British institution and idea (plus the very British version of the 19th-century ideals behind it, of justice and fairness) being taken over, perverted, and banalized.

The worst being twisting international, global, and universal (all good things, for moving towards a cruelty-free world) to mean “American.” That’s the cultural imperialism we’re talking here; aggravated by an over-simplification of the issues at hand, led by simplistic pseudo-thinking, which results in serious flaws in the ideas. Folly.

Historical ignorance is actively dangerous. As well as being a thoroughly bad thing because it gets my goat.

But on a positive note: People: talk to each other: you have more in common than dividing you, especially the crucial factor here about caring about people, animals, planet, and ethics!

Take action: the tools are there at your finger-tips. Well, your tools are your finger-tips: get typing and emailing! See previous posts on this here blog for one instance of this, with Weleda… even though in that case they’re not going to go Leaping Bunny and I’m still going to buy their products, and consider myself to be still buying cruelty-free, because Leaping Bunny’s policy is flawed. Flaws notwithstanding, I still reckon Leaping Bunny to be good and useful. It’s better than nothing, and the world is a better place for it existing, compared to how it would be if The Bunny (or something like it) didn’t exist.

Here’s a rapid digest of useful Leaping Bunny links, for you to the consumer to take action with “your” brands :

  • You can contact any company and request that it open up its animal testing policy to scrutiny by joining the Leaping Bunny Program. Please feel free to use this downloadable Sample Letter as a guide http://www.leapingbunny.org/whatcani.php. It is important for companies to hear from consumers like you who want to buy products that are not tested on animals.
  • Help us reach our goal of 100,000 signatures by Taking the Leap to go cruelty-free at www.leapingbunnypledge.org

Here’s some correspondence between Leaping Bunny and yours truly (with personally-identifying elements—names, email addresses, telephone numbers—disguised or removed):  Continue reading →

Weleda update

These guys are definitely in my Good Books. I’m not posting up the full and very courteous and honest reply I received, just two shorts excerpts and the official policy document that came attached. My reply came from a “corporate communications manager” for the Weleda group. Titles / job descriptions like that tend to raise my hackles. Never mind my anti-bureaucratic, anti-BS/NewSpeak, and anti-kleptocratic prejudices: it is rare to receive such a full and detailed reply: other companies, take note. Boxes ticked:

  • answered the questions asked
  • didn’t just copy and paste a canned answer given to all enquiries
  • didn’t just respond to the first keyword spotted rather than reading the whole bloody question
  • was written well and elegantly, a pleasure to read

Message to other companies that consider themselves ethical, responsible, and so on: here’s how it’s done to the highest standard. In my humble and doubtless highly prejudiced opinion. Here is one excerpt from the email (note: “cosmetic” here isn’t used in the sense of “cosmetics / make-up” but in the more technical sense of “not a medically-necessary treatment”; so it includes skincare, bath stuff, baby skincare, men’s skin and shaving and grooming products, toothpaste, deodorant, and other toiletries) :

[...] China: This has always been a very small business for us, managed from our headquarters in Switzerland. There are some cosmetics that do not require animal testing in Mainland China, but we also had an unfortunate experience with three of our products there that were tested on animals without our knowledge. For some time, there were different views within the company as to what to do with these three products. They are now being withdrawn from the Mainland. Please see the statement on our sales in Mainland China that I have attached here for additional details.

Here’s the aforementioned statement, which you’ll see had been neatly, succinctly, and truthfully summarized:

Continue reading →

Weleda

1. I like Weleda. As a company (weird theosophical stuff aside), some products in particular.

2. They’ve not tested their products on animals, um, ever.

3. But: they’re not on any of the formal “no testing” sites. Possibly due to honesty about testing and about regulatory procedures; and as the company’s been around—unlike many others—at the peak historical period for animal testing, the 1940s-60s. Thus, tainted like all other older companies. Seems unfair, and unfair rules by the granters of fluffy bunny marks and suchlike, prejudice in favour of younger newer companies over older ones, of ignorance (genuine or feigned) over knowledge and honesty, and generally a high risk of pointing customers towards greenwashers and bandwagon-jumpers.

4. On the other hand, Continue reading →

the joy of shoes

Great vegan shoes, but not too practical: not so much the sky-high heels as the being made of chocolate. Xoxolat, Vancouver

Shoes are great. They protect the soles of your feet from broken glass, gravel, mud, ice, hot melting tarmac, and water-dwelling parasites. And the whole of your feet from cold, wet, and in extreme cases, chemical spills and other industrial hazards. Steel-capped toes another plus.

Yes, they can look nice too. And maybe even make your feet look nicer.

And there’s ever-increasing quantities of good vegetarian and vegan ones around. Here’s a selection, and a few links to blogs that I’ve found to be helpful and informative (and in some cases drool-worthy).

NEXT UP after this post, in the next post, that is:

  • Nice things to do to feet to make them happy…

SOME BRANDS

Some are all-vegan, some are all-vegetarian, and some have some shoes that are vegetarian or vegan. Brands that are all vegetarian or vegan (check for specifics, depending on where you draw the line) are in bold. UPDATE: done some hyper-linkage-ing all round…

Some of the brands below may actually be vegetarian or vegan, but I haven’t checked because they’re not really my thing (ex. Crocs); do let me know which of the non-bold ones should properly be emboldened (and if you have no shame in, say, loving Crocs; each to their own…).

There are more. Many more. Ever more. And please do feel free to add more to the list c/o comments, I’ll update it as needed!

  • Acorn
    slippers, too
  • Arcopedico:
    some vegan shoes, good if your workplace requires their sort of thing (not my thing)
  • Asics:
    many of their trainers/sneakers are vegan
  • Beyond Skin:
    chic
  • Big Buddha (c/o Steve Madden):
    some serious funky joy; possibly perhaps now defunct
  • BOGS:
    great waterproof insulated boots
  • Bourgeois Boheme:
    chic and gorgeous
  • Brave Gentleman:
    does what it says on the tin, elegantly
  • Chaco:
    classic waterproof adjustable sandals
  • Chinese Laundry:
    flats especially
  • Chipkos:
    never seen in person; flip-flops / thongs. Not my thing.
  • Converse:
    classic basketball-to-skat-to-street shoes, sneakers, etc. A design classic. Most are at least vegetarian, and there’s been a lot of vegan bloggers checking with the company re. glue and suchlike
  • Cri de Cœur:
    gorgeousness
  • Crocs
    (urgh)
  • Dansko:
    have a range of vegan clogs
  • Doc Martens:
    their vegan 8-eyelet boot went away for a while, been back for a while (but no longer made in England, and quality has gone down: see Veganline and Vegetarian Shoes for alternatives)
  • Earth
    (now called Kalsø Earth Shoes, and most of the new designs are unfortunately minging):
    still do some vegan shoes, the most interesting of which is probably the Elite and Pride boots, plus otherwise some kinda granny shoes (though my grannies were way to stylish to have been seen dead in them)
  • Elizabeth Detroit
  • Ethletic (UK):
    vegan, eco-friendly, fair-trade; great Converse-style low-and high-tops
  • Etnies
    offer a lot of vegan shoes of the classic skate-shoe variety
  • Fluevog:
    have been doing more and more vegan shoes every year (go local Van!)
  • Forever 21:
    as with many another cheap & cheerful shop, most of the shoes aren’t leather (but check re. glue and manufacturing ethics)
  • Form & Fauna
  • Freerangers
  • Greenshoes
    gorgeous glorious magnificent beautiful heart-breakingly desirable hand-made shoes, all of which are available in vegan or non-vegan versions. A very “equal opportunity” company.
  • Hearts of Darkness (by Cri de Cœur):
    lovely
  • H & M:
    same goes as for Forever 21
  • Hunter boots:
    paradoxically, vegan; a paradox and an irony given that their original purpose and main use (off the trendier streets of Vancouver and suchlike) is for hunting, shooting, fishing…
  • J-41:
    solid sandals, all the ones I’ve seen are vegan, but do check: we don’t have any B&M stores selling them here, or anywhere else I’ve been recently, so I’ve not tried them on in/on the flesh. Would be interesetd in more info on these…
  • Keds:
    same degree of classicitiy as Converse and Vans; mainly vegan I think, if not all?
  • Keen:
    a lot of vegan ones, inc. the classic waterproof sport sandas
  • Keep:
    only seen online, never in person; some good-looking shoes here, of the skate-to-street sort
  • MacBeth:
    good canvas stree/skate shoe type footwear, plus more
  • Madden Girl (Steve Madden):
    if you like heels, look here!
  • Marks & Spencer (UK):
    many of their shoes are vegan; wide range of styles
  • Melissa
    (inc Vivienne Westwood collaboration)
  • Merrell:
    most of their barefoot range is vegan, some of their sandals; most of their amazing warm winter boots aren’t, alas
  • Mohop:
    lovely sandals, soles plus interchangeable ribbons to wrap round our feet andn/or ankles in various ways, providing you with a large number of pairs of sandals; see also their shop on Etsy
  • Native:
    gO Canada! More aesthetically-pleasing than Crocs, and some neat short boots for the coming season
  • Neuaura:
    all vegan, much is work-appropriate for more conservative workplaces… but look carefully, there’s always a few nice pieces lurking there too
  • New Balance:
    many of their trainers/sneakers are vegan
  • NOHARM: men’s
  • Novacas:
    all-vegan, and some serious stylishness going on. Can usualy be relied on to provide some sex-on-legs boots (made for walking, etc.) for the fall to winter.
  • Olsen Haus
  • OSPOP:
    think the Platonic form of the canvas laceup shoe, add a touch of Palladium or Keen to the styling (re. the toe-caps), and add in ethically proudly made in China for what to many consumers may be an unexpected twist…
  • Palladium:
    classic canvas stree/skate shoe, those boots with the rubber toe-cap
  • Patagonia:
    some vegan ones; all have style
  • Sanuk:
    hippy hemp stuff, beach classics
  • Saucony:
    most of their trainers/sneakers are vegan
  • Schuh (UK):
    many of their own-brand shoes are vegan, plus other stocked in the store
  • Skechers:
    many are vegan
  • Stella McCartney:
    high vegan style, plus collaborations with other shoe-makers
  • Teva:
    another classic sport sandal, some less sporty but all with a minimalist simplicity of line; some are leather, but most aren’t and indeed classify as vegan. Also, they last forever (9 years on my current pair).
  • Toms:
    classic slip-on espadrillish shoes, some are leather and most have leather insoles, but there’s also a fair number of vegan ones
  • Topshop:
    same goes as for Forever 21
    ***principal purveyors of jelly shoes to the masses!!!***: HUEY2, the classic “fisherman” jelly sandals; HELLO strappy jellies 
  • Tretorn:
    most are vegan (and all the wellies / rain-boots / gumboots), better-made and cheaper than Hunter boots, many colours and patterns including a fabulous bright yellow; really good short boots
  • Urban Outfitters:
    same goes as for Forever 21
  • Vans:
    the classic canvas stree/skate shoe; a few now have leather, but not the old skool greats (some have been on the books for a good 20 years)
  • Veganline (UK):
    ethically-made as well as vegan; some are their own, some are made by others. Good source for classic shapes of shoe, ex. like DM boots, Palladium high-tops; plus workplace court shoes and suchlike
  • Vegetarian Shoes (UK):
    great shoes, plain and simple; mostly classic shapes and stles, like the 8-eyelet boot and other Air Sole sorts of things, plus shoes appropriate for a conservative workplace. Highly recommended.

And there’s also quite a lot of veg trainers / sneakers from Adidas, Airwalk, Nike, Reebok, Superga and a bunch of others I’ve not tried (or not recently), or not seen.

Caveat emptor: On many of the above, especially larger stores (but less so better places like M&S): watch out for the human rights side too, and how well-made shoes are. It’s a waste of money to buy something that’ll fall apart when you’ve worn it twice. It’s also an environmental waste, and a waste of labour, transport and warehousing costs, and everything else along the way.

RIP:

  • Simple: hopefully just for the moment and not for ever
  • Birkenstock, Birkis, Tatami, Papillio, etc.: are stopping or have stopped making vegan shoes; worth looking around to se if you can find some (or even just their compromise shoes, with Birkiflor synthetic uppers but leather footbeds) online

SOME SHOPS

SOME EXCELLENT SHOE-BLOGS

WHAT I’M WEARING CURRENTLY: FALL—WINTER—EARLY SPRING

  • Vegetarian Shoes Chelsea boot
  • Vegetarian Shoes Boulder classic 8-eyelet boot; these and the Chelsea boot (and others in their Airseal lot) are made in England: think the quality and craftsmanship of vegan DMs of 20 years ago, and then up it a notch. Great shoes.
  • Ilse Jacobsen boots, various pairs (vegetarian but not vegan)
  • Earth Shoes Elite shiny zip-up knee-length boots (fab)
  • Merrell Pace Glove barefoot running shoes, also for gym
  • (not vegan) old Keen light hiking boots, mainly fabric but some leather: wearing these till they’re done
  • Vegetarian Shoes Ally: “nice” more girly shoes, though still flat and functional i.e. I could walk several miles, say for an hour or so non-stop, and sprint 100 m in them
  • and (somewhere???) an old pair of vegan Earth Solar mary-janes

SUMMER THROUGH EARLY FALL

  • (not vegan) old Keen light hiking boots, mainly fabric but some leather: wearing these till they’re done
  • Patagonia Advocate slip-ons: old, super thin and light
  • (non-veggie) old Birkenstocks: vegan upper but leather footbed; I’ve had them for years and am wearing them until they die, resoling them every year or two
  • Keen Whisper waterproof sandals
  • antique indestructible Teva sandals
  • for when I need to wear closed-toe shoes: Vegetarian Shoes Ally

OBJECTS OF LUST:

  • Greenshoes: the Willow Shoe, and the Buckled , Oxeye, Peony, or Samphire sandals
  • Jelly shoes!!!
  • Mohop flat non-thong sandals
  • Montrail light hiking ankle-height boots (but it may be years before I need new hikers)
  • Also other chic shoes from Cri de Cœur, Olsen Haus, etc…

AND ALSO

the art of asking about animal testing

There’s been a couple of posts on here, on this tricky issue. It’s too easy to ask “do you test?” and a company to answer “no.”

Here, from recent correspondence, are some refinements to add; plus an open question.

[UPDATE]: and here are (1) the links I’d have put up if I’d first posted this whane I wasn’t kinda sorts on my way to bed, and (2) the main body of this post, that I’d have put up if the WordPress app on a smartphone at f***-o’clock had let me do sdidn’t post. WordPress app, for the record, IS NOT FIABLE. Harumph.

1. QUESTIONS ASKED PREVIOUSLY

Basically:

1. Are your products cruelty-free? That is: no animal testing by you, or by third parties on your behalf, on finished products and on ingredients?
2. What is your animal-testing status for markets requiring it (e.g., China)?
3. Where are your products made, their raw materials sourced, and what are the animal testing requirements there?

(that second post above is an example)

Elaborate version (from the first post above):

When emailing companies asking about their cruelty-free status, I used to ask this question:

Are you cruelty-free?

Which is, with hindsight and knowing about manufacuturing and global-market developments in the last 10-15 years, not entirely sensible. Might even be a stupid question. See, it could perfectly easily ellicit this answer:

Yes.

and maybe even the elaboration

we believe in being cruelty-free

and that could very well be true, but doesn’t necessarily mean

we do not test out products or ingredients on animals, nor do we pay others to do so on behalf, at any stage in production up to and including selling them

See, it all hinges on are you (and how you interpret the verb “to be”).

So I’m now asking this instead:

Dear [brand X],

I’ve very much liked your mascara, but had a couple of issues I’d be keen to see resolved before I consider repurchasing.

I would be very grateful if you could answer the following questions:

1. Are your products cruelty-free? That is: no animal testing by you, or by third parties on your behalf, on finished products and on ingredients?

2. What is your animal-testing status for markets requiring it (e.g., China)?

3. Where are your products made, their raw materials sourced, and what are the animal testing requirements there?

Many thanks in anticipation,

[yours truly]

2. RECENT REFINEMENTS TO THE QUESTION

Email from Marlenne:

Hello,

My name is Marlenne and I am very passionate about animal rights, especially about animal testing, because being a girl I love beauty and unfortunately the reality is that, for now, most brands test on animals :\ So I have made my mission to spread the word about this issue and make it as easy as I can for other people to learn about this and make the transition from cruelty-filled to cruelty-free :)

Anyway, for the real reason I am contacting you: I love how thorough you are with your questionnaire to the companies and the effort that you put into it and into informing your readers. However, I think it would be great if you added a question when sending emails asking about their policies along the lines of why they are not cruelty-free certified.

Personally I don’t trust any company that is not cruelty-free certified by CCIC/Leaping Bunny. But now that I see someone that knows so much about the issue and that doesn’t seem to have that as a requirement I would like to know your reasoning behind that decision. Don’t get me wrong; I just really want to be well-informed on this issue, and learning about other points of view won’t do any harm.

Thank you so much and keep up the great work you have been doing! I will definitely start following your blog (which I only stumbled upon today) as a source for news on this.

Regards,
Marlenne

pinterest.com/perfectcircle

Reply:

Hi Marlene,

In principle, I agree: I’m a fan of the CCIC too, and I certainly agree that’s a good question to ask: “if you don’t have cruelty-free certification, why not?”

One issue is that there’s more than one kind of certification out there, worldwide; and I for one am more in favour of a fixed cut-off date policy for reasons of practicality and common sense, rather than more extreme positions. But individual positions will vary: and your question is a good one, as it triggers lots of responses (ex “because we’re certified with another scheme” and it’s one I’ve never heard of: that’s one way to learn new things!

But here’s a thing. Most companies adopting extreme anti-testing positions (and in their propaganda too) are ignorant of testing history, and some-to-many are jumping on the ethical bandwagon so as to get into this/our market, sell products sometimes at a higher price, and always: to make money.

See, any product containing water (for example: this goes for all common basic ingredients) contains an ingredient that has been tested on animals, to their, to ascertain what the lethal dose is. I value company honesty, and their respect and care for customers. I would rather buy from a company that’s open and honest about everything from ingredients to end product; and that will admit that at some point, even if it’s many human lifetimes ago, some of the ingredients they use have been tested on animals. That shows respect for the animals that went through these tests (mostly in the 1940s-1950s). And it shows awareness of the history of testing: and caring about the truth, and getting things right.

I try to stay as wary and skeptical around all companies whose aim (they’re all businesses after all!) is to sell me stuff. It’s only fair and just to be wary around the ones who claim to be cruelty-free too.

I’m probably more wary now, as we’ve seen recently how big organizations like PETA (with lots of resources and staff) can get things wrong: with Hard Candy a few months ago. With publishing limited, oversimplified information about how the testing situation is evolving in China. On that last one: again, I’d prefer honesty: if something’s changing, it’s less black-and-white and more grey, there’s no definite answer, there’s work in progress going on: I’d prefer to hear that.

So yes: yours is a splendid question to add. I’ll think about it some more; I feel we ought to be able to think up and add on some more sneaky trick questions, to sort out companies who really are cruelty-free and doing it for the right reasons, because it’s the right thing to do. And separate out companies doing it for fashion, or who don’t know (and don’t care) and may even say “yes, sure, no testing” just to keep a customer happy.

We need to keep the beauty industry on its toes!

I’ll add this on the blog. We’ll see if other people can add to the questions (especially sneaky ones), see how crowd-sourcing goes!

Thank you for the email: it was thought-provoking, and it’s always good to hear from and virtually meet other people who care about being cruelty-free!

Yours in solidarity,

Ginger

So: now: here’s the open question. In an idea world, how would you phrase these questions? What sneaky tricky questions would you add, to keep companies on their toes, to sort the sheep from the goats, and indeed the show up the bandwagon-jumpers and ethics-washers?

Also: I love “cruelty-filled” as the opposite to “cruelty-free.”