Note: I’ve not used it and won’t be using it. You probably couldn’t pay me to use it. Lemon and orange oils do not on my face go. Delizioso Skicare: “Natural Made Simple”–you have got to be taking the piss. This is not simple. It’s an insult to simple, and an abuse of the English language. There’s “purity” crap too (end of post, with apologies–make sure you have antihistamines ready to hand, I got my usual hives…)
Delizioso: Mangosteen Acai Vita Burst Moisturizer SPF 30: USD36.00 / CAD38.00–summer sale! was $62.00!!–for 1 oz of this:
*Coconut Milk, *Aloe barbadensis Leaf (Aloe Vera) Juice, *Vaccinium myrtillus (Blueberry) Juice, *Punica granatum linn (Pomegranate) Juice, *Rosa damascena (Rose) Hydrosol, *Green and White Tea infusions, *Calendula officinalis (Calendula Petal) infusion, Extracts of Garcinia mangostana (Mangosteen), Euterpe oleracea(Acai), *Vaccinium myrtillus (Blueberry), Calendula officinalis (Calendula), Coffea arabica (Green Coffee) Oil, Cucumber, *Citrus Medica Limonum(Lemon), *Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange), Rosehip, and Punica granatum linn (Pomegranate), Alpha Hydroxy Acids (From beet, organic sugar cane and lemon peel), Acer Saccharinum (Sugar Maple), Vita Burst Beads (Outer core: Xanthan Gum and Cranberry Powder with Carageneen. Inside: Mangosteen Extract, Non GMO Vitamin E, and Acai Extract), helichrysum immortelle Essential oil, Titanium Dioxide (12%), and Natural Antioxidant Preservative (Antioxidant fruit extracts, berries and Tea Tree). [* = organic]
Stuff that actually moisturizes: coconut milk, rosehip (if it’s the oil–doesn’t say: also, note non-INCI-compliant ingredient listing), the oils inside the magic exploding beads: açaí, “vitamin E” (source unspecified)
Soothing liquidy-emollient base: aloe vera, rose hydrosol, the other aqueous infusions (tea, calendula, immortelle), cucumber (why’s it not in Latin too?)
Antioxidants: blueberry, pomegranate, açaí, tea, coffee
Exfoliating, allegedly rejuvenating, etc.: sugar-based AHAs, sugar-maple beads
Sunscreen: titanium dioxide; nothing on particle size or coating, though
Unknown: vitamin E source: wheat? sunflower? safflower? synthesized?
Proven frequent irritants: lemon, orange
Manufacturer claims: the bits that made me quibble, quiver, or at least go “pfff” have been highlighted in red:
100% Natural Mangosteen & Acai extracts along with Alpha Hydroxy Acids use a potent anti-aging system of antioxidants to perfect dull skin. Organic oils nourish while aloe and pure juices of cucumber and blueberry rehydrate. As you apply the moisturizer Vita Burst Beads infused with a potent does of Vitamin E, Acai, and Mangosteen pop and start to act immediatley [sic]. This technology helps keep the potent ingredients at their very peak of action.
The benefits of acai extract are undeniable, and this is the reason it has become one the [sic] the best selling health foods of the last decade. Helps repair damage and tissues.
Green Coffee is a superb antioxidant that helps to revive and restore skin. Green Coffee Oil, Coffea arabica, is rich in phytosterols that promote excellent moisture retentio. [sic]
The mangosteen extract has been found to be an extremely efficient antibacterial and anti-inflammatory agent that acts as a superb replenishing ingredient.
The spelling alone should ring warning bells in the sensible consumer. Let alone trigger allergic reactions. Plus organic all over the shop. Reasoning: fail. Latin abuse: fail. Hydrating and moisturizing claims, marketing moderated-speak, transposition of food claims to skin, lack of linkifying to studies or other reference to evidence substantiating claims, overuse of adjectives and adverbs, …
Mangosteen: there’s genuinely interesting research on it. Almost all on ingestion: nutrition, medicament. Some on skin–but it’s a big leap from anti-inflammatory properties and application to skin infections and wounds (like witch-hazel, burdock leaves, etc.), to “superb replenishing agent.” Plus, can of worms: a case of traditional medical use, needs more work. Alas: and I know, this is an issue, and I’m not going to knock an ingredient just because it’s “only” got “folk medicine” behind it: after all, data is data, and this is date from experimental use and longitudinal studies; not conventional orthodox ones, but the information is there.
One recent study so far, but general not just skin: Obolskiy, D., I. Pischel, N. Siriwatanametanon, M. Heinrich, 2009. Garcinia mangostana L. (mangosteen): A phytochemical and pharmacological review. Phytotherapy Research 23(8): 1047–1065. DOI: 10.1002/ptr.2730, abstract
- Jung HA, Su BN, Keller WJ, Mehta RG, Kinghorn AD (March 2006). “Antioxidant xanthones from the pericarp of Garcinia mangostana (Mangosteen)”. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 54(6): 2077–82. doi:10.1021/jf052649z. PMID 16536578.
- Crown I (2009). “Beyond the Mangosteen: A Future Full of Colour”. Natural Products Information Centre (April 1, 2009). Retrieved 1-4-2010.
- Morton DA (2009). “Mangostana – Commentary on the Mangosteen”. Natural Products Information Centre (16th April, 2009). Retrieved 1-4-2010.
- Crown I (2009). “A Rebuttal on Mangosteen”. Natural Products Information Centre (5th May, 2009). Retrieved 1-4-2010.
- Gross P, Crown I (2009). “The Mangosteen Controversy”. Natural Products Information Centre(May 21, 2009). Retrieved 1-4-2010.
- Matsumoto K, Akao Y, Yi H, et al. (November 2004). “Preferential target is mitochondria in alpha-mangostin-induced apoptosis in human leukaemia HL60 cells”. Bio-organic & Medicinal Chemistry 12 (22): 5799–806. doi:10.1016/j.bmc.2004.08.034. PMID 15498656.
- Wong LP, Klemmer PJ (May 2008). “Severe lactic acidosis associated with juice of the mangosteen fruit Garcinia mangostana”. American Journal of Kidney Diseases 51 (5): 829–33.doi:10.1053/j.ajkd.2007.12.043. PMID 18436094.
Also: this stuff is made in Canada, yet the CAD price is higher than the USD one? In spite of all recent exchange-rates?
Dear manufacturer: you could have just looked up Wikipedia, copy-pasted from there, and employed a decent editor to jiggle around your text. It could all have looked so much more convincing. I for one refuse to pay a two-figure sum for something with that many typos, spelling mistakes, grammatical errors, and crass misuses of punctuation. Getting them right would have cost you in the region of USD40.00-50.00 / hour, for a competent qualified professional. A “researcher” trawling the net would have been another good buy; price would vary, you could get someone to do this from USD20.00 / hour and up. Look: this bit here on this blog post took me under 5 minutes (heh, joys of copy-paste).
Also, you could have spent some money on website and packaging design. *Shudder.*
As for lab testing and suchlike… ahem…
Instead of all of which: zero investment in getting a product to work and backing it up, maximum profits. Setting up accuns on Facebook, Twitter, and a site that’s on Blogger–well done. Did you get your kid to do this on a wet afternoon after school? Actually, probably not, they’d have done a better job.
I’m sure these are nice well-meaning people. But I’m keeping my $38.00 and will be spending it on something else. Like more pizza, with antioxidant tomatoes on top, olive oil with phytosterols, fresh herbs with vitamin C and trace minerals, etc. Oh, yep, and cheese.
Ah. It’s an EWG, ahem, “plant”: that would be where they’ve spent their marketeering budget, signing the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics and Getting Listed. With apologies for what follows, for the site’s creative approach to typesetting and formatting (and more linguistic abuses and substantial nonsense):